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Table of contents

1. Telendos 160 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 26.907907, 37.007769

Access Issues:

Ferry runs daily, every half hour, from the port at Myrties (1 Km s of Massouri) to Telendos. 2€ from 8a - 12 midnight. A boat also goes directly to the beach near Irox/Eros leaving at 10a and returning at 5p/1700.

Ethic: inherited from Kalymnos

Full bolted sport climbing with a documented bolting standard.

1.1. Three Caves 29 routes in Cliff


3 south facing caves visible from the port at Telendos

1.1.1. Gymnasium 8 routes in Sector

All Sport

far left (uphill) cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dément 6cSport 35m
2 Princess 7c+Sport 35m
3 Impossible is Nothing 8bSport Project 32m
4 Un Don du Ciel 7bSport 25m
5 Chaleur 6bSport 20m
6 Lara Pa 6bSport 20m
7 Fromage 6b+Sport 20m
8 Bloody Fingers

gloves advised!

6bSport 20m

1.1.2. Barbarossa 8 routes in Sector

All Sport

middle cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 To Kapsouli 6bSport 35m
2 Barbarossa 7a+Sport 20m
3 Comandante Jorge 7bSport 20m
4 Titi 6aSport 18m
5 Merinos 6a+Sport 18m
6 Regina 5cSport 20m
7 Reginald 6aSport 20m
8 Summer Wine 6a+Sport 18m

1.1.3. Totem pole 5 routes in Sector

All Sport

right (lowest) cave

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Totem Pole 7c+Sport 20m
2 Roofopoulos 8a+Sport 20m
3 Scooby-Doo 7bSport 20m
4 Viva Fidel 6bSport 18m
5 Odysseas the Donkey 6a+Sport 18m

1.1.4. For Telendian 8 routes in Sector

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kane to Bam! 6cSport 30m
2 ET BIM! 7aSport 30m
3 Fatsa Karta ston Levante 5cSport 25m
4 Helene the Teacher 6b+Sport 25m
5 Little Fun 5bSport 17m
6 Brutalisation 7a+Sport 20m
7 Gresivaudan 6cSport 15m
8 Mazette 6bSport 30m

1.2. Telendos N. face 1 route in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gelitokit 6b+Sport 100m

1.3. Miltiadis 7 routes in Cliff


vertical climbing on VERY SHARP rock for most of the routes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rita Restaurant 6aSport 36m
2 Sficonis 5c+Sport 36m
3 Catsika 5cSport 38m
4 Emmanuele 6a+Sport 38m
5 Diana 6bSport 38m
6 Et Voilá 7a+Sport 25m
7 Sebasti 6aSport 30m

1.4. Saint Constantine 3 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vasilopoula 6cSport 20m
2 Ploutonios 6aSport 25m
3 Voutihtis 6bSport 25m

1.5. Eros 6 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Aphrodite 6cSport 24m
2 ** Nymph 6c+Sport 15m
3 Mira que tinc 7bSport
4 *** Eros 7a+Sport 20m
5 *** Adonis 7aSport 22m
6 Tremendos en Telendos 7a+Sport

1.6. Irox 33 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sally’s boat trip 3cSport
2 Primerov 3cSport
3 Captain Jack 4aSport
4 Pantelis sea jump 5bSport
5 Cuobo 7cSport
6 *** Irox 8a+Sport
7 ** Marmornei 7c+Sport 20m
8 *** Helvet-x 6c+Sport
9 Kyprios Angel 7a+Sport
10 More than mode 7bSport
11 ** Magma 6bSport
12 Xymox 6b+Sport
13 The Magic Circle 6a+Sport 18m
14 Sole fish 6b+Sport 30m
15 Swordfish 6b+Sport 27m
16 Hollenfieber 7a+Sport
17 Yorkshire Pudding 6cSport
18 28 at 40 5c+Sport
19 * The white rose 6aSport
20 ** Inglaton 6bSport 25m
21 Menecis 6cSport
22 Dionesis 6bSport
23 Evangelia 5bSport
24 Anastasia 5aSport
25 Mo An 4cSport
26 Sevasti 4bSport
27 Evdokia Sport
28 Evoula 4cSport
29 Kiriaki 5aSport
30 Niki 5aSport
31 Iason 5bSport
32 Maria 5a+Sport
33 Popi 5aSport

1.7. Glaros 19 routes in Unknown

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirty Dog 5aSport 20m
2 Heather 5b+Sport 25m
3 Claudia 5c+Sport 25m
4 Ingvild 6a+Sport 25m
5 I-Climber 6b+Sport 30m
6 Kyra 6b+Sport 25m
7 PhanX 6bSport 25m
8 Laruna 6b+Sport 25m
9 Schiza 7aSport 25m
10 *** Contador 6c+Sport 20m
11 Contador extension 7a+Sport 25m
12 * Maylen 7bSport 30m
13 Breakfast on Pluto 7c+Sport 30m
14 Glaros 8bSport 30m
15 Tipota 8c+Sport Project 30m
16 Apagorevmeno Oniro 9aSport Project 30m
17 Barabuk 8b+Sport 30m
18 StormPU 8a+Sport 25m
19 Trollgod 7b+Sport 25m

1.8. Pescatore 25 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Lucas bad boy 5cSport 30m
2 *** Hot Roc 5cSport 30m
3 *** Angelica Babis bar 6b+Sport 30m
4 ** Farabutto 6c+Sport 25m
5 Forza 99 6bSport 25m
6 Kargoles 6a+Sport 30m
7 Rita 6aSport 30m
8 A l'ovest di Kabul 6bSport 25m
9 Leane 6a+Sport 30m
10 Axel 6aSport 20m
11 Easy 5cSport 22m
12 *** Amores Perros 7c+Sport 25m
13 Ayena 8aSport 25m
14 Queen Potha 8bSport 30m
15 Scooter Fun 8a+Sport 20m
16 Michialis 7bSport 25m
17 Y viva pancho villa 7a+Sport 15m
18 Abaneros 7bSport 20m
19 Padelis 7cSport 25m
20 Zorba 7bSport 15m
21 Otr 7aSport 30m
22 Tequischiapan 7aSport 20m
23 Plaka 6b+Sport 20m
24 Isilli 6cSport 20m
25 Mafalda 6a+Sport 15m

1.9. Lambda 34 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 KV Brig

200m left, high up of main wall

5bSport 15m
2 D'Sezz

200m left, high up of main wall

5b+Sport 20m
3 Stafel 6b+Sport 25m
4 *** Lambda 6a+Sport 30m
5 ** Lambda Captial

Extension to Lambda. - downgrade to 7a+ in latest update

7a+Sport 50m
6 *** Hot Chili 5c+Sport 25m
7 * Hot Chili Young Love

Extension to Hot Chili.

8 *** Lava 6aSport 30m
9 *** Eruption 7aSport 50m
10 * Meiggeren 6aSport 30m
11 Aroleid 5cSport 20m
12 ** Progressive Rock Part 1

Like the name ... progressively steeper and more challenging climbing with a balancy crux ... the 6c has anchors at 40m and you will need every cm of an 80m rope. 6a+ to the 30m anchor and a 7a if you continue past the second anchor.

6a+Sport 30m
13 ** Progressive Rock part 2

First extension to Progressive Rock

6cSport 40m
14 * Progressive Rock part 3

Second extension.

7b+Sport 50m
15 ** Dom 6bSport 40m, 18
16 ** Fiirhelzer 6bSport 30m
17 * Arbzug 6cSport 40m
18 ** Gerwitscht 6c+Sport 40m
19 ** Chardonnay 7a+Sport 40m
20 *** El Alamein 6c+Sport 40m
21 Marinelli 4bSport 20m
22 * Hotel Simi Basement 4cSport 20m
23 *** Hotel Simi


6b+Sport 50m
24 ** Schwjieschwanz 6aSport 40m
25 Schwjieschwanzerrected


6b+Sport 50m
26 General 6a+Sport 40m, 17
27 Telendos Star 6bSport 35m, 18
28 * Nordend 6aSport 30m
29 ** Flauschi 6b+Sport 30m
30 ** Rolfi 6a+Sport 30m
31 * Hermetje 6bSport 30m
32 * Cresta Rey 5aSport 20m
33 * Eggen 5bSport 20m
34 * Ze Seewjnen 5b+Sport 20m

1.10. Telendos South Face 3 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Long (250m+) multi pitch routes are the main attraction.


Home to the iconic multi pitch routes 'wings for life' and 'wild country', as well as a number of single pitch routes in the large caves on the face.


Take the ferry to Telendos, and ask the skipper if he can drop you at 'wings for life'. This cost 10 € per passenger in 2013.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 De Charybde en Cila
  1. 6a 25m 11QD. Easy start, hard wall shortly before the anchor.

  2. 6a+ 30m 11 QD. Traverse rightwards; a challenging, slightly overhanging wall on small, sharp holds (could be 6b).

  3. 20m 2QD. Leftward traverse and walk.

  4. 6b 35m 14 QD. Smooth, vertical wall.

  5. 6b+ 35m 14 QD. Slightly overhanging. Perhaps the most beautiful pitch.

  6. 6b+ 35m 13 QD. A consistently interesting slab.

  7. 6a 20m 13 QD. Attention – loose blocks above the anchor.

  8. 6b 30m 13 QD. An ‘airborne’ exit, the icing on the cake! The final anchor is a bit further up behind a big lodged block.

Set by Claude Idoux, André Langenbach, 2012

6b+Sport 210m
2 ** Wings for life 6aSport 250m
3 *** Wild Country

This route has a lot of bolts, and a lot of exposure. Route finding is easy (follow the bolts), but it would be easy to get lost on the descent in poor conditions. An excellent testing day for climbersoperating in the mid 6's.

6a+Sport 270m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3c Primerov Sport 1.6. Irox
Sally’s boat trip Sport 1.6. Irox
4a Captain Jack Sport 1.6. Irox
4b Sevasti Sport 1.6. Irox
Marinelli Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
4c Evoula Sport 1.6. Irox
Mo An Sport 1.6. Irox
* Hotel Simi Basement Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
5a Anastasia Sport 1.6. Irox
Kiriaki Sport 1.6. Irox
Niki Sport 1.6. Irox
Popi Sport 1.6. Irox
Dirty Dog Sport 20m 1.7. Glaros
* Cresta Rey Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
5a+ Maria Sport 1.6. Irox
5b Little Fun Sport 17m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Evangelia Sport 1.6. Irox
Iason Sport 1.6. Irox
Pantelis sea jump Sport 1.6. Irox
* Eggen Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
KV Brig Sport 15m 1.9. Lambda
5b+ Heather Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
D'Sezz Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
* Ze Seewjnen Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
5c Regina Sport 20m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Fatsa Karta ston Levante Sport 25m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Catsika Sport 38m 1.3. Miltiadis
Easy Sport 22m 1.8. Pescatore
*** Hot Roc Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
*** Lucas bad boy Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
Aroleid Sport 20m 1.9. Lambda
5c+ Sficonis Sport 36m 1.3. Miltiadis
28 at 40 Sport 1.6. Irox
Claudia Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
*** Hot Chili Sport 25m 1.9. Lambda
6a Reginald Sport 20m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Titi Sport 18m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Rita Restaurant Sport 36m 1.3. Miltiadis
Sebasti Sport 30m 1.3. Miltiadis
Ploutonios Sport 25m 1.4. Saint Constantine
* The white rose Sport 1.6. Irox
Axel Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
Rita Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
*** Lava Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
* Meiggeren Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
* Nordend Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
** Schwjieschwanz Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
** Wings for life Sport 250m 1.10. Telendos South Face
6a+ Merinos Sport 18m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Summer Wine Sport 18m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Odysseas the Donkey Sport 18m 1.1.3. Totem pole
Emmanuele Sport 38m 1.3. Miltiadis
The Magic Circle Sport 18m 1.6. Irox
Ingvild Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
Kargoles Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
Leane Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
Mafalda Sport 15m 1.8. Pescatore
General Sport 40m, 17 1.9. Lambda
*** Lambda Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
** Progressive Rock Part 1 Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
** Rolfi Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
*** Wild Country Sport 270m 1.10. Telendos South Face
6b Bloody Fingers Sport 20m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Chaleur Sport 20m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Lara Pa Sport 20m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
To Kapsouli Sport 35m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Viva Fidel Sport 18m 1.1.3. Totem pole
Mazette Sport 30m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Diana Sport 38m 1.3. Miltiadis
Voutihtis Sport 25m 1.4. Saint Constantine
Dionesis Sport 1.6. Irox
** Inglaton Sport 25m 1.6. Irox
** Magma Sport 1.6. Irox
PhanX Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
A l'ovest di Kabul Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
Forza 99 Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
** Dom Sport 40m, 18 1.9. Lambda
** Fiirhelzer Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
* Hermetje Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
Telendos Star Sport 35m, 18 1.9. Lambda
6b+ Fromage Sport 20m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Helene the Teacher Sport 25m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Gelitokit Sport 100m 1.2. Telendos N. face
Sole fish Sport 30m 1.6. Irox
Swordfish Sport 27m 1.6. Irox
Xymox Sport 1.6. Irox
I-Climber Sport 30m 1.7. Glaros
Kyra Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
Laruna Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
*** Angelica Babis bar Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
Plaka Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
** Flauschi Sport 30m 1.9. Lambda
*** Hotel Simi Sport 50m 1.9. Lambda
Schwjieschwanzerrected Sport 50m 1.9. Lambda
Stafel Sport 25m 1.9. Lambda
De Charybde en Cila Sport 210m 1.10. Telendos South Face
6c Dément Sport 35m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Gresivaudan Sport 15m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Kane to Bam! Sport 30m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Vasilopoula Sport 20m 1.4. Saint Constantine
** Aphrodite Sport 24m 1.5. Eros
Menecis Sport 1.6. Irox
Yorkshire Pudding Sport 1.6. Irox
Isilli Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
* Arbzug Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
** Progressive Rock part 2 Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
6c+ ** Nymph Sport 15m 1.5. Eros
*** Helvet-x Sport 1.6. Irox
*** Contador Sport 20m 1.7. Glaros
** Farabutto Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
*** El Alamein Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
** Gerwitscht Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
* Hot Chili Young Love Sport 1.9. Lambda
7a ET BIM! Sport 30m 1.1.4. For Telendian
*** Adonis Sport 22m 1.5. Eros
Schiza Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
Otr Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
Tequischiapan Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
*** Eruption Sport 50m 1.9. Lambda
7a+ Barbarossa Sport 20m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Brutalisation Sport 20m 1.1.4. For Telendian
Et Voilá Sport 25m 1.3. Miltiadis
*** Eros Sport 20m 1.5. Eros
Tremendos en Telendos Sport 1.5. Eros
Hollenfieber Sport 1.6. Irox
Kyprios Angel Sport 1.6. Irox
Contador extension Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
Y viva pancho villa Sport 15m 1.8. Pescatore
** Chardonnay Sport 40m 1.9. Lambda
** Lambda Captial Sport 50m 1.9. Lambda
7b Un Don du Ciel Sport 25m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Comandante Jorge Sport 20m 1.1.2. Barbarossa
Scooby-Doo Sport 20m 1.1.3. Totem pole
Mira que tinc Sport 1.5. Eros
More than mode Sport 1.6. Irox
* Maylen Sport 30m 1.7. Glaros
Abaneros Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
Michialis Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
Zorba Sport 15m 1.8. Pescatore
7b+ Trollgod Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
* Progressive Rock part 3 Sport 50m 1.9. Lambda
7c Cuobo Sport 1.6. Irox
Padelis Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
7c+ Princess Sport 35m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Totem Pole Sport 20m 1.1.3. Totem pole
** Marmornei Sport 20m 1.6. Irox
Breakfast on Pluto Sport 30m 1.7. Glaros
*** Amores Perros Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
8a Ayena Sport 25m 1.8. Pescatore
8a+ Roofopoulos Sport 20m 1.1.3. Totem pole
*** Irox Sport 1.6. Irox
StormPU Sport 25m 1.7. Glaros
Scooter Fun Sport 20m 1.8. Pescatore
8b Impossible is Nothing Sport Project 32m 1.1.1. Gymnasium
Glaros Sport 30m 1.7. Glaros
Queen Potha Sport 30m 1.8. Pescatore
8b+ Barabuk Sport 30m 1.7. Glaros
8c+ Tipota Sport Project 30m 1.7. Glaros
9a Apagorevmeno Oniro Sport Project 30m 1.7. Glaros
? Evdokia Sport 1.6. Irox