Routes as trad in Greece

Can be top-roped from the 'Abrazis' anchor.

The only trad route on the whole island. Bolted belays pitch 1, 2 and 3. Standard rack.

Descent: Afterb finishing go left on the peakalong the gorge (sector "Eiar" on the other side). ftThe only trad route on the whole island. After 30min you reach the red hiking trail going down.

Descent 2: Rappelling from trees to the bolted belays of pitch 1, 2 and 3.

1+1+0+0+0 bolts. Topo see guidebook.

Video.

30m

“Anemologio” (VI+, 120m) was set on 23/3/1993 by Titopoulos, Kouniakis and Bailey.

The first pitch (30m) moves on a slab until a small horizontal crack with one bolt (V+), it continues upwards from the left side on a slab until the anchors. (2 bolts, and cord)

The second pitch (30m) follows a corner from up untill the anchors. (2 bolts)

The third pitch (30m) begins straight upwards and moves towards and inside the dihedral crack (VI+, 1 bolt). The pitch ends some meters to the left after exiting the crack. (2 bolts).

The fourth and last pitch (30m) moves on the slab above the anchors, after the third bolt moves left towards the crack at the end of it on the slab are the anchors (2 bolts).

Necessary Equipment: Set of Nuts, Set of Friends (up to Camalot #3) and a few slings and cords.

Rappelling down is done from 2 rappel stations each of 55m from R4 and R2. With 50m ropes follow R4,R3,R2,R1.

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Mpaompap

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/666

Pitch 2 : 6 bolts Pitch 3 : 3 bolts

http://www.miliascamps.gr/index.php/el/mnu-climbingroutes-gr/21-climbingroutes/50-artclimbing-flabmeta-gr.html

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Parallilon

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Metamoschepsi

Nuts and friends https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Apohorisi

Nuts and Friends https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Ptisi

from my opinion is V, IV, VI-

More difficult than IV.

At the first meters difficult to put trad gear.

Difficult to put trad gear.

Start from Lernea Idra and turn right at the crux to aeras anchor.

careful for loose rocks.

More difficult than IV.

2nd pitch 7b+ on old bolts.

The first 7a to be opened and climbed in Greece.

No bolts. Shares anchors with Pediki.

There is only one bolt in the beginning. Then 2 slings are enough, the rout is short

NO BOLTS NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

NO BOLT NO ANCHORS

second pitch 20m. Both pitches with no permanent anchors.

No permantent anchors.

NO BOLTS NO ANCHORS