Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Hong Kong 香港 597 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.204069, 22.265689

1.1. New Territories 132 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.1.1. Tsuen Wan Boulders 122 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

1.1.2. Waterfall rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Unique Features And Strengths:

The crag is formed by basalt columns similar to those seen at classic locations such as Giants Causeway in Ireland, only here the rock has been subjected to a little more in the way of tropical weathering. As such, the rock is mostly solid but has a thin covering of flakey weathered rock that will fall off with use. The top of the crag is very loose and the safest exit is by moving right along the ridge towards the headland. Beware of occasional very large unattached rocks. Helmets are recommended.

Description:

Gear is plentiful throughout nearly all routes, small wires and small to medium cams, and as such it is requested that climbers retain a traditional ethic when climbing here.

A full ropes length is needed for the left hand side of the crag. All the routes completed so far have been up obvious crack systems, however plenty of potential remains for harder face and arête routes remains.

The bottom of the crag is located at a wave cut platform which can get covered by the sea if a big swell is running so its best to visit the crag during low tide / periods of generally calm weather.

Access Issues:

From Sai Kung town take a bus to the country park entrance on Tai Mong Tsai Road. From here it is necessary to take a taxi to the end of the West Dam of High Island Reservoir (by the large hexagonal sea defenses.) Walk to the far end of the sea wall, passing the outcrop of Po Pin Chau, and cross over the fence before continuing along the headland on a small path.

Cross a small stream and ascend to the saddle of the hill (Fa Shan). The path splits into three when you reach the headland. Follow the steep path which cuts directly down the pebble beach and carry along the coast, around two head lands (past some otherpotentially worthwhile crags) until Waterfall Rock - Fashion Crag is reached.

Approach:

This approach can be made in all but high tides. However the bottom of the cliffs are washed by waves if there is a swell running so flat seas are advisable.

The approach will take you about an hour from the gates of the national park in a taxi.

Ethic:

Trad.

History:

Developed by Matt Tranter and Ben George in 2004. Does not get much traffic because of the difficulty in getting here, the lack of bolts and the fact that most people in Hong Kong would rather be poked with sharp sticks than be seen in the New Territiories!

1.2. Kowloon 124 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.227645, 22.317837

1.2.1. Beacon Hill 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
Description:

Short, easily accessible sport routes on top quality, rough as it comes, granite make this crag almost as popular as Technical Wall, Tung Lung Chau.

Take the MTR to Shep Kip Mei Station. From there take a taxi through Tai Wo Ping and onto Lung Cheung Road, heading east. Shortly after joining Lung Cheung Road a WSD access road breaks off to the right. Follow this up the hill until a gate and service reservoir are reached. To the right of the reservoir a small track leads up the hill to the crag. Approach time approx. 10 minutes.

1.2.2. Lion Rock 28 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.3. Kowloon Peak 46 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.4. Devil’s Peak 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Clearwater Bay 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.1. Clubhouse Cliff 18 routes in Area

Summary:

1.3.2. Promontory Point 8 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4. Tung Lung Chau 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.289700, 22.248254

Description:

Hong Kongs premiere climbing area, Tung Lung Chau, contains probably the highest concentration of quality sport climbs in the territory.

Access Issues:

A ferry runs to Tung Lung Chau from Sai Wan Ho typhoon shelter (exit A1 from Sai Wan Ho MTR Station and walk rightwards to the coastline) on weekends and most Public Holidays.

A ferry also runs from the pier at Sam Ka Tsuen, Lei Yue Mun (approach by taxi from Lam Tin MTR Station).

Weekday access: Sampans (for up to 4 people) can usually be rented from the typhoon shelter at Sai Wan Ho by just showing up and haggling with the boat operator. A speed boat (with capacity for 10 people) can be arranged by calling Mr Cheng at: 9080 3754.

Approach:

Upon arrival at the island follow the obvious concrete path, signposted towards Tung Lung Fort. The large boulder located atop a small hillock is Kite Rock and contains half a dozen short bolted routes. Continue along the path, past the Holiday Store (which provides free topo’s, strong coffee and excellent dumplings), to a camping ground.

1.4.1. Technical Wall 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Single pitch sport climbs on solid volcanic rock in a highly sociable setting make Technical Wall by far Hong Kongs most popular crag. Its worth noting that Technical Wall can get very busy on Sundays and Public Holidays and crowds in excess of 50 people at the wall have been seen.

36 Sport Routes between 10m and 20m in length Grades from F4+ to F8a+. 20 minute easy approach walk from ferry pier. Sunny aspect in the morning and pleasant sea breeze on hot days.

1.4.2. Sea Gully Walls 31 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.3. Big Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4.4. Kite Rock (a.k.a. Bagpuss Boulder) 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Short sport climbs on a small boulder of very rough pocketed volcanic rock perched high on the hillside.

7 bolted micro-routes on a large boulder of very rough volcanic tuff. 10 minute easy approach walk from ferry pier. Sunny aspect throughout the majority of the day.

1.4.5. Big Wall (With names updated.) 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5. Hong Kong Island 149 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.196676, 22.249709

1.5.1. Shek O 67 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.255969, 22.228721

1.5.2. Soho Crag 69 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.147965, 22.278806

Description:

Soho crag is located right above the heart of Hong Kong, Central District. Access is relatively easy, grades are easy to moderate and the route quality is high. The crag can be approached from either the end of Po Shan Road or Old Peak Road.

From Po Shan Road: Climb up the concrete maintenance staircase to the top of the slope at the end of the road. From the top of the staircase follow an older set of stairs a meter or two higher up until you reach an old, slightly overgrown footpath. Turn left and follow this for 10 minutes until you reach a drainage line with a yellow tag hanging from a tree above it and the word 'soho' painted faintly on a boulder.

From Peak Road: From the rest area at the end of the road follow the footpath rightwards as it contours the hillside. After 5 minutes or so, just after crossing some granite slabs, the path climbs steeply up a narrow flight of stairs before continuing around the hillside to reach the same drainage channel described above.

Follow the drainage channel upstream for 5 minutes until you reach the base of a small cliff. Traverse right along the base of this (fixed rope in place) until you reach the bottom of a fixed line. The fixed line leads approximately 30m up a steep slab to the base of the crag, where a limited amount of space is available for stashing rucksacks etc. whilst you climb

Access Description 2: Take a taxi to 23 Old Peak Road. Follow the flat walking path past the small pagoda, contouring around the hill through jungle. After about 10 minutes you'll reach stone steps leading up the hill. Follow these and then fixed ropes to reach Soho Crag.

1.5.3. Bowen Road Boulder 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.4. Bowen Road Crags 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.5. Stubbs Road Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.6. Chung Hom Kok Buttress. 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.7. Lion Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6. Lantau Island 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.1. Black Kite Crag 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6.2. Temple Crag 15 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6.3. Eagle Crag 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.7. Stanley Peninsula 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.7.1. Cave Cliff. 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.2. Stanley Slabs. 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.7.3. Steps Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.4. Stanley Walls. 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7.5. Cave Cliff Buttress 0 routes in Area