Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Hong Kong 841 routes in Region

Summary:
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seasonality
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 114.187048, 22.335896

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access to most crags with public transportation arriving as close as 10 minutes walk in some cases.

Mostly granite on the inner hills and vast quartzite formations by the coastlines.

Description:

With its 800+ routes spread over more than 30 crags, Hong Kong can be easily considered among the top rock climbing destinations in China and Asia.

History:

The history of Rock Climbing in Hong Kong starts in the 50s following the British wave of explorers.

Interesting reading, a guide to Hong Kong Rock Climbing from the '60s: http://hongkongclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/a_guide_to_rockclimbinginhongkong.pdf

1.1. Hong Kong Island 340 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 114.196490, 22.250082

Description:

Hong Kong Island - most crags are easily accessible by public transport + a short taxi ride.

1.1.1. Black Links Road 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.185741, 22.258279

Description:

The easiest approach to the crag is to head up Stubbs Road to Wong Nai Chung Gap (well served by either taxi or bus). From there go along Blacks Link to the end of the road. Follow the concrete trail around the hillside, beneath some engineered slopes. At the far end of the slopes a drainage channel cuts back up the hill. Follow this to the top of the slope and then continue up the eroded ground above. A dirt trail leads from this to the base of the crag.

Approach:

Taxi to the top of Black links road. Jump over the fence at the marker BL63.

History:

1.1.2. Bowen Road 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 114.171315, 22.271797

1.1.3. Cape Collinson 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.255526, 22.254436

Unique Features And Strengths:

Cape Collinson features approximately 55 sport routes distributed over 3 sectors.

1.1.4. Central Crag 90 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 114.147965, 22.278806

Description:

Central crags is located right above the heart of Hong Kong, Central District. Access is relatively easy, grades are easy to moderate and the route quality is high. The crag can be approached from either the end of Po Shan Road or Old Peak Road.

From Po Shan Road: Climb up the concrete maintenance staircase to the top of the slope at the end of the road. From the top of the staircase follow an older set of stairs a meter or two higher up until you reach an old, slightly overgrown footpath. Turn left and follow this for 10 minutes until you reach a drainage line with a yellow tag hanging from a tree above it and the word 'soho' painted faintly on a boulder.

From Peak Road: From the rest area at the end of the road follow the footpath rightwards as it contours the hillside. After 5 minutes or so, just after crossing some granite slabs, the path climbs steeply up a narrow flight of stairs before continuing around the hillside to reach the same drainage channel described above.

Follow the drainage channel upstream for 5 minutes until you reach the base of a small cliff. Traverse right along the base of this (fixed rope in place) until you reach the bottom of a fixed line. The fixed line leads approximately 30m up a steep slab to the base of the crag, where a limited amount of space is available for stashing rucksacks etc. whilst you climb

Access Description 2: Take a taxi to 23 Old Peak Road. Follow the flat walking path past the small pagoda, contouring around the hill through jungle. After about 10 minutes you'll reach stone steps leading up the hill. Follow these and then fixed ropes to reach Soho Crag.

1.1.5. Chung Hom Kok Buttress. 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.201266, 22.213708

1.1.6. Monkey Buttress 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 114.197421, 22.282623

Unique Features And Strengths:

Not very tall (12/13 mt), granite with many vertical cracks all along. Hand jamming and side pulling required on many of the routes.

Description:

A nice granite wall with super easy access.

Approach:

From the end of Breamer Hill road take the small path on the right. Following the steps, cross the river keep following it upstream and take the left up the obvious path after 20 mt. Keeping your right and following the fixed ropes you will get to the crag in not more than 5 minutes walk.

1.1.7. Mount Nicholson 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 114.185710, 22.260043

1.1.8. Shek O 67 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 114.258308, 22.230053

1.1.9. Stanley Peninsula 37 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 114.217634, 22.205449

1.1.10. Stubbs Road Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

1.1.11. Tai Koo Boulders 0 routes in Area

1.2. Kowloon 149 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.186545, 22.326895

1.2.1. Beacon Hill 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.169190, 22.346961

Description:

Short, easily accessible sport routes on top quality, rough as it comes, granite make this crag almost as popular as Technical Wall, Tung Lung Chau.

Access Issues:

Beware of monkeys, wild boars and wild dogs during the approach.

Approach:

Take the MTR to Shek Kip Mei Station, Exit A.

From there you can take:

Minibus 32M till the last station at the end of Lung Ping road and take the hiking path up the metal stairs till reaching the reservoir (approach time 20 minutes).

Taxi to Lung Yan Road (龍欣道). Just tell the taxi driver to bring you till the end of the road till reaching the reservoir.

To the right of the reservoir a small track leads up the hill to the crag. Approach time approx. 10 minutes.

1.2.2. Lion Rock 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.187736, 22.351145

Description:

Probably the best view point in Hong Kong featuring the best multi pitch routes.

Approach:

45 min walk uphill from Lion Rock park

1.2.3. Kowloon Peak 55 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.222634, 22.339291

Description:

Mostly trad routes on granite rock. Enjoyable view over kowloon bay.

Approach:

There are two approach paths depending on which crag you want to reach.

For Split Boulder, Aquila Crag and September Crag, the approach path starts by some concrete stairs few hundred meters after the Good Hope primary school.

For all the others crags, you have to take the hiking path that brings to the peak. First get to Fei Ha Rd (a small private road turning left from the start of Fei Ngo Shan Road). From here, walking in, on your right there are two paths that goes parallel uphill and join right below the Skyline crag: the first has a fixed rope and follow an old drain canal; the second is just 20 meter further (recommended).

1.2.4. Devil’s Peak 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.242049, 22.291539

1.3. Lantau Island 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 113.947809, 22.261234

1.3.1. Black Kite Crag 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.020305, 22.290665

Approach:

Head to Lantau’s Discovery Bay via ferries from Central or bus from Tung Chung. Once at DB ferry pier walk towards the Marina Club. At the junction where the road on your left goes up hill , stay on the right and head towards the pier. Behind the guards box, follow the footpath signposted towards Mui Wo or Nim Shue Wan. Walk past the first and second beaches to a village. Follow the concrete path uphill and then back down through an area of banana trees. Upon reaching the first white cement hut, on your right with the beach on your left, follow steps down to the beach through a vegetable plot. Turn left at the beach and walk to its end from where the crag is easily recognised.

1.3.2. Temple Crag 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 113.984327, 22.229277

1.3.3. Eagle Crag 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 113.977823, 22.228559

1.4. New Territories 219 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 114.236366, 22.413441

1.4.1. Tsuen Wan Boulders 164 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 114.092693, 22.380345

1.4.2. Waterfall rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 114.374081, 22.356012

Unique Features And Strengths:

The crag is formed by basalt columns similar to those seen at classic locations such as Giants Causeway in Ireland, only here the rock has been subjected to a little more in the way of tropical weathering. As such, the rock is mostly solid but has a thin covering of flakey weathered rock that will fall off with use. The top of the crag is very loose and the safest exit is by moving right along the ridge towards the headland. Beware of occasional very large unattached rocks. Helmets are recommended.

Description:

Gear is plentiful throughout nearly all routes, small wires and small to medium cams, and as such it is requested that climbers retain a traditional ethic when climbing here.

A full ropes length is needed for the left hand side of the crag. All the routes completed so far have been up obvious crack systems, however plenty of potential remains for harder face and arête routes remains.

The bottom of the crag is located at a wave cut platform which can get covered by the sea if a big swell is running so its best to visit the crag during low tide / periods of generally calm weather.

Access Issues:

From Sai Kung town take a bus to the country park entrance on Tai Mong Tsai Road. From here it is necessary to take a taxi to the end of the West Dam of High Island Reservoir (by the large hexagonal sea defenses.) Walk to the far end of the sea wall, passing the outcrop of Po Pin Chau, and cross over the fence before continuing along the headland on a small path.

Cross a small stream and ascend to the saddle of the hill (Fa Shan). The path splits into three when you reach the headland. Follow the steep path which cuts directly down the pebble beach and carry along the coast, around two head lands (past some otherpotentially worthwhile crags) until Waterfall Rock - Fashion Crag is reached.

Approach:

This approach can be made in all but high tides. However the bottom of the cliffs are washed by waves if there is a swell running so flat seas are advisable.

The approach will take you about an hour from the gates of the national park in a taxi.

Ethic:

Trad.

History:

Developed by Matt Tranter and Ben George in 2004. Does not get much traffic because of the difficulty in getting here, the lack of bolts and the fact that most people in Hong Kong would rather be poked with sharp sticks than be seen in the New Territiories!

1.4.3. Salong 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.005725, 22.382093

1.4.4. Clearwater Bay 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 114.301461, 22.265188

1.4.5. Tai Hang Tun 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 114.305749, 22.291561

1.5. Tung Lung Chau 90 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 114.289700, 22.248254

Description:

Hong Kongs premiere climbing area, Tung Lung Chau, contains probably the highest concentration of quality sport climbs in the territory.

Access Issues:

Public transportation is only available during weekend and public holidays.

During weekdays a private transportation can be arranged. Check the "approach" section for details.

Approach:

A ferry runs to Tung Lung Chau from Sai Wan Ho typhoon shelter (exit A1 from Sai Wan Ho MTR Station and walk rightwards to the coastline) on weekends and most Public Holidays.

A ferry also runs from the pier at Sam Ka Tsuen, Lei Yue Mun (approach by taxi from Lam Tin MTR Station).

Weekday access: Sampans (for up to 4 people) can usually be rented from the typhoon shelter at Sai Wan Ho by just showing up and haggling with the boat operator. A speed boat (with capacity for 10 people) can be arranged by calling Mr Cheng at: 9080 3754.

Upon arrival at the island follow the obvious concrete path, signposted towards Tung Lung Fort. The large boulder located atop a small hillock is Kite Rock and contains half a dozen short bolted routes. Continue along the path, past the Holiday Store (which provides free topo’s, strong coffee and excellent dumplings), to a camping ground. From here you may make your way to the different climbing areas/crags.

Where To Stay:

Camping is possible all year long.

1.5.1. Technical Wall 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.297173, 22.254468

Description:

Single pitch sport climbs on solid volcanic rock in a highly sociable setting make Technical Wall by far Hong Kongs most popular crag. Its worth noting that Technical Wall can get very busy on Sundays and Public Holidays and crowds in excess of 50 people at the wall have been seen.

36 Sport Routes between 10m and 20m in length Grades from F4+ to F8a+. 20 minute easy approach walk from ferry pier. Sunny aspect in the morning and pleasant sea breeze on hot days.

1.5.2. Sea Gully Walls 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 114.295830, 22.253545

1.5.3. Kite Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.291892, 22.254944

Description:

Short sport climbs on a small boulder of very rough pocketed volcanic rock perched high on the hillside.

7 bolted micro-routes on a large boulder of very rough volcanic tuff. 10 minute easy approach walk from ferry pier. Sunny aspect throughout the majority of the day.

1.5.4. Big Wall 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 114.295846, 22.252943

Description:

Tung Lung’s Big Wall is a multi pitch sport climbs in a stunning situation, especially when a big swell is running.

WARNING: This wall contains many loose blocks, although most routes (particularly those in the higher grades) are on relatively solid rock. It should therefore only be approached by a competent party. If there are any signs of other parties already on the wall extreme caution should be taken when abseiling in. Please do not attempt to clean the blocks off this wall, there’s too many, it’s too dangerous, and it could seriously alter the character of many of the routes as falling blocks smash into them.

Please also note that, other than jumaring up a fixed line or swimming around into Sea Gully (neither of which are particularly desirable), the routes described are the only means of escape once you’ve abseiled in. If you have any doubts of your ability to safely climb the routes please do not attempt to climb on the wall.

1.6. Lamma Island 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 114.129213, 22.206413

Approach:

1.6.1. Mount Stenhouse 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 114.126052, 22.192531

1.6.2. Lamma Boulders 0 routes in Area

Access Issues:

From Central Ferry Pier No. 4 take the ferry to Sok Kwu Wan, which departs from the left side of the ferry pier (check schedules). The ferries from right side go to Yung Shue Wan and add about 45 minutes to the approach walk so avoid these!

From the ferry pier in Sok Kwu Wan head right and follow the main path past all the sea food restaurants to a small open area. At the far left corner of this square is a staircase and footpath which lead up the hill (signposted to Tung O). Follow this path uphill until a small shelter is reached, approximately 20 minutes. Taking the right hand branch in the footpath leads to the Pagoda Boulders, whilst the left takes you to the Ling Kok Shan Boulders.