Central Crag Guide

  • Grades: HK
  • Approach time: 20
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 193

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Table of contents

1. Central Crag 103 routes in Area



Mostly Sport climbing

Long/Lat: 114.147965, 22.278806


Central crags is located right above the heart of Hong Kong, Central District.


Access is relatively easy, grades are easy to moderate and the route quality is high. The crag can be approached from either the end of Po Shan Road or Old Peak Road.

From Po Shan Road: Climb up the concrete maintenance staircase to the top of the slope at the end of the road. From the top of the staircase follow an older set of stairs a meter or two higher up until you reach an old, slightly overgrown footpath. Turn left and follow this for 10 minutes until you reach a drainage line with a yellow tag hanging from a tree above it and the word 'soho' painted faintly on a boulder.

From Old Peak Road: Take a taxi to 23 Old Peak Road. Follow the flat walking path past the small pagoda, contouring around the hill through jungle. After 5 minutes or so, just after crossing some granite slabs, the path climbs steeply up a narrow flight of stairs before continuing around the hillside to reach the same drainage channel described above. Follow the drainage channel upstream for 5 minutes until you reach the base of a small cliff. Traverse right along the base of this (fixed rope in place) until you reach the bottom of a fixed line. The fixed line leads approximately 30m up a steep slab to the base of the crag, where a limited amount of space is available for stashing rucksacks etc. whilst you climb

1.1. Soho Crag 15 routes in Crag

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 114.148899, 22.278048


From left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ming Dynasty

Retrobolted in 2017 with new anchor. Was VS 4c.

FA: Tom Chew & Ed Pramuk, 2005

5 Sport 27m, 12
2 Club 64

New anchor (2017).

5+ Sport
3 Club 64 alternate end 6a Sport
4 Old Bailey

Retrobolted in 2017 with new anchor. Was HVS 5a

FA: Tom Chew & Ed Pramuk, 2005

5+ Sport 27m, 12
5 Scare Master

Start up the bolted thin crack at left end of the wall and establish yourself beneath the small roof and arête. Search frantically for any good holds above the roof before quickly yarding your way up to the security of the steep slab above. Follow the delightful arête above on its left side, clipping bolts around the corner on The Escalator, to the top of the wall. New anchor (2017).

6a+ Sport 25m
6 The Escalator

New anchor (2017).

6b Sport
7 Centralsauras

New anchor (2017).

6a+ Sport
8 Aprils Fool

Above Centralsauras.

4 Sport
9 Thunderbolt HVS 5a Trad 47m, 2
10 Centraline

Retrobolted. Was E1 5a (trad). New anchor (2017).

5+ Sport 22m
11 Peel Street

Make big moves on good holds up the steep wall and then trend slightly right as the angle eases off, crossing over Thin Line, to reach a steep blank looking wall where the real fun begins. New anchor (2017).

6b+ Sport 20m
12 Lan Kwai Fong 6a Sport 20m
13 Thin Line E2 5b Trad 15m
14 Stauntons Cafe

P1 : 4 P2 : Botanical Gardens. Can be climbed with a 60m rope

5 Sport
15 Botanical Gardens

Above Stauntons Cafe.

HS 4a Trad

1.2. Soho West 7 routes in Crag

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 114.148530, 22.278264


Soho West consists of two walls that can be accessed by following the fixed ropes right of ”Botanical Gardens”. The area includes a slightly overhanging 20m wall directly above Soho Crag and a 10m high wall located slightly lower down and to the right of the overhanging wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 F3

Start near the tree left of Castle Steps and climb the slab before continuing up the arete. Shares the last bolt of Aprils Fool using a long sling.

{FR} 3 Trad
2 Castle Steps

Start in the left corner of the crag at a small gum tree. Climb the slab to the intersection with the rear overhanging wall. Pass over a small overhanging protrusion in the middle of the wall above and finish up and left to the high bolted anchor atop Aprils Fool.

{FR} UK:S Sport
3 V Diff {FR} 4 Top rope
4 Cave Dweller {FR} 6c Top rope
5 Overhanging cave crack 6b Sport
6 Round About 4 Sport
7 Easter Sunday

FA: Martin Lancaster, 2006

6c Sport

1.3. Soho East 10 routes in Crag

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 114.149290, 22.277863


Soho East is the wall immediately left of Club 64, accessed from the end of the narrow walkway beneath Soho Crag. From left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arbuthnot Flakes {FR} 6a Sport
2 Beal

Start as for Loki.

6a Sport
3 Loki

Start as for The Nostril.

5 Sport
4 The Nostril {FR} 5 Sport
5 The nose {FR} 4 Sport
6 Root Route

This access route goes from bottom to top of Soho East with access to routes on the large block up and left of Bladerunner.

HVD Trad 30m
7 No Roots Allowed {UK} VS 4b Trad
8 Bladerunner

A titillating romp up the prominent knife blade arête just left of the main Soho crag. This route will get you going with exposure even though the overall angle is gentle.

5 Sport 40m, 2
9 Electric Sheep

FA: Brian Smeets, Feb 2017

6a+ Sport 27m, 12
10 Shunthunt

FA: Gianfranco Bigazzi, Feb 2017

5a Sport 27m, 12

1.4. Austin Powers 18 routes in Crag

All Sport climbing

Long/Lat: 114.147534, 22.279058



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Peak Route {FR} 4 Sport 25m
2 Mini Me {FR} 6a+ Sport 8m
3 Mini More

Same anchor than Mini Me.

{FR} 5 Sport 9m, 3
4 Gold Member {FR} 6a Sport
5 Cryogeny

Same anchor than Gold Member.

7a+ Sport 8m
6 Number One

Same start than Cryogeny. Same anchor than Gold Member.

{FR} 6c Sport
7 Defroster {FR} 7c+ Sport
8 Super Spy

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2011

{FR} 7a+ Sport
9 Dr. Evil {FR} 6c+ Sport 12m
10 Shagadelic

Same anchor than Super Spy.

{FR} 4 Sport 23m
11 Central on Central

Resin bolts. Same anchor as Yeah Baby!

{FR} 4 Sport
12 Yeah Baby!

Expansion bolts. New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6a+ Sport 18m
13 Unnamed Route

Resin bolt.

5 Sport
14 Vulcan probe

Its onset is just right of Yeah Baby! Climbs easy slab to bulge with interesting moves over the top with great hand pocket just when you crave it most. Easier climbing above with some worthy single moves if easiest route is avoided. Alternative lines over the bulge can be climbed on either side sharing same bolts.

{FR} 6a Sport 24m
15 Feeling Groovy

Most prominent traditional line right in the middle of this bulgy section of the lower crag. Very fun opening moves into layback on crack, then easier climbing above, with some run-outs especially in upper portion. Optional finish at tree (halfway), or climb all the way to bolted anchor with longer runout. Retrobolted in 2013.

FA: Ed Pramuk & Phyllis Hsia, 2007

{FR} 4 Sport 23m
16 Fat Bastard

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 5 Sport
17 Do I Make You Horny ?

New anchor (2017).

5 Sport 9m
18 International Man of Mystery

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 4a Sport 17m

1.5. Lost Crag 8 routes in Sector

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 114.147216, 22.278876

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1 5a Sport
2 2 5b Sport
3 3 5c Sport
4 4 6a Sport
5 5 Trad
6 6 6b Sport
7 7 Trad
8 8 5b Sport

1.6. Forgotten Buttress 12 routes in Crag

All Sport climbing

Long/Lat: 114.147302, 22.278430


The best (safest) approach to Forgotten Buttress is to scramble up the gully at the right side of Soho Crag an then continue across right to the big easy angled slab. Continue up this until you reach Mid-Levels Crag. Pass beneath this and then scramble up the left side of the crag before traversing across to the base of Forgotten Buttress. Routes are described left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab 5c Sport
2 iCarumba

Climb the slabby corner system at the left side of the crag until it is possible to pull into the vertical crag. Ascend this tentatively to reach overlaps high up. Tricky moves through this bring the anchors and lower off. New anchor (2017).

FA: Tom Chew & Andrew Irwin, 2006

{FR} 6b Sport
3 Backyard

A superb climb up the blank looking face. Start up the corner as for iCarumba until it is possible to step out on to the face using small footholds and even smaller crimps. With luck a hard move up and right brings more positive holds and a short respite for the fingers (Note: those shorter than about 5’10” will find this hard for F7b+ but, hey ho, such is life…). Continue up the wall above via flakes and crimps to join iCarumba at the overlap. Shared anchor with iCarumba.

FA: Laurent Jacob (2011)Nikolai Ng on Local Spirit, 2011

{FR} 7b+ Sport
4 Local Spirits

A stunning and desperate climb up the right side of the face. Climb the short groove to a large slopey jug. Launch up the face above via small crimps and flakes to reach a brief ‘rest’ at a good undercut and prepare yourself as the crux is still to come. Continue up the wall on tiny crimps until dynamic moves bring the top of the wall.

{FR} 8b Sport
5 Alliance

Little in the way of independent climbing, combining the bottom of the Laurent’s Project and the top of Backyard, but a worthwhile addition none the less. Climb the short steep groove to the slopey jug and a brief rest. Continue up the wall above using small crimps and flakes to reach a positive undercut/sidepull. Launch left from here via small sidepulls and crimps to join the upper part of Backyard. Finish as for that route.

{FR} 8a Sport
6 Wife on Vacation

The crack system separating the two halves of Forgotten Buttress involves interesting climbing in the lower half followed by more amenable moves in the top half. Awkward start. New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6b Sport
7 Dan Pai Dong

Follow the crack of Wife on Vacation until level with the overhang on the buttress to the right. From here move right and pull through the roof to finish as for La Dolce Vita.

{FR} 6c Sport
8 Human Condition

The slab to right of Wife on Vacation yields only to immaculate technique, strong fingers and the ability to levitate up using miniscule footholds. Desperate moves on small foot holds and sidepulls low down eventually lead to more user friendly holds in the upper part of the slab. These in turn lead to a good rest beneath the overhang and head wall. Pull through the roof on good holds before trending up and left using holds on the wall and arete to reach the top of the headwall.

{FR} 7b+ Sport
9 La Dolce Vita

One of the best routes of its grade at Central Crag (or indeed, in Hong Kong). Start in the centre of the slab, about 3 m left of the large concrete buttress. Delicately climb up the bulging slab (avoiding the concrete block and metal stubbs) to reach good undercut holds and steeper walls above. From here you can either continue directly up the steep wall using well spaced crimps or scamper off right and follow the crack and flake line. Either approach leads to a small ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Rest well before launching through the roof and establishing yourself on the wall above. Climb this, trending up and right, to reach the anchor at its top.

{FR} 6c Sport 15m
10 La Dolce Vita (Left)

Follow Dolce Vita until you’ve pulled through the roof and are established on the headwall. Finish up and left as for Human Condition.

{FR} 7a Sport
11 Vita Dura

Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Good holds lead through the small overhanging section and to the bottom of the steep arete. This feature is followed either through delicate palming up the arete itself or via steep dynamic moves up the arete and wall to the left. Either way, initial hard moves lead to a more relaxing finish.

7c+ Sport
12 Sunny Side

Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. From here move around the corner in order to access the slabby wall above. Climb this using cracks and crimps to reach the top of the buttress. New anchor (2017).

6a+ Sport

1.7. Mid Levels Crag 11 routes in Crag

All Sport climbing

Long/Lat: 114.147930, 22.278242

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Route 55

The short corner/groove system at the left side of the crag. Start using either a big dyno or a stiff pull before continuing awkwardly up the wall above. New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6b+ Sport
2 Artwork

Shared anchor with Route 55.

{FR} 8a Sport
3 Single Malt

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6c+ Sport
4 Road to Damascus

Same anchor than Single Malt.

{FR} 6c Sport
5 Fourway / Four ways

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6a Sport
6 Fourway alternative finish

Follow the technical thin slab via the corner crack to the right.

{FR} 6c Sport
7 Battle of the Bulge

Start as for Four Ways.

{FR} 6b Sport
8 Independence Day

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6a+ Sport
9 Hillfire {FR} 6b+ Sport
10 Off Width Ramp {UK} VD Sport 7m
11 Father's Day {UK} HS 4b Sport 17m

1.8. Cave Crag 7 routes in Crag

All Sport climbing

Long/Lat: 114.146587, 22.279284

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blood and Water 6a+ Sport
2 The Joker

Avoid toproping, prefer abseiling from the anchor.

{FR} 6a+ Sport
3 Catch me if you can

Start as for the Joker.

7c Sport
4 The Riddler {FR} 6a+ Sport
5 Batman and Robbed

Bolted by Ed, stolen by the above, hence the name. Same anchor than The Riddler.

FA: Dick & Jim Gray

{FR} 6a Sport
6 Rebar

FA: Stuart Millis

{FR} 6c Sport
7 Pinhead

Same anchor than Rebar.

{FR} 5a Sport

1.9. Bird's Nest Crag 15 routes in Crag

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 114.146823, 22.278619

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Magic {FR} 6b Sport
2 Birds Nest Soup HS Trad
3 Birds Nest Direct VS 4c Trad
4 Out with the Old {FR} 7b Sport
5 Easy Route {UK} VD Trad
6 Big Bird {FR} 5c Sport
7 Lascar

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 6c Sport
8 Contribution

Start as Lascar using the first bolt before moving right.

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 6c+ Sport
9 Concrete Poetry

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 7b Sport
10 Unbeatable

Set by Laurent Jacob, 2012

FA: Rocky Lok, 2013

{FR} 8 Sport
11 Brainstorm

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 6c Sport
12 Orange Gutter Sport
13 Golliwogal Lives {FR} 6a Sport
14 Trousers Off {FR} 6b+ Sport
15 Robocop {FR} 7a Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 F3 Trad 1.2. Soho West
VD Off Width Ramp Sport 7m 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Easy Route Trad 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
HVD Root Route Trad 30m 1.3. Soho East
4a International Man of Mystery Sport 17m 1.4. Austin Powers
4 Aprils Fool Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Round About Sport 1.2. Soho West
V Diff Top rope 1.2. Soho West
The nose Sport 1.3. Soho East
Central on Central Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
Feeling Groovy Sport 23m 1.4. Austin Powers
Old Peak Route Sport 25m 1.4. Austin Powers
Shagadelic Sport 23m 1.4. Austin Powers
S Castle Steps Sport 1.2. Soho West
HS 4a Botanical Gardens Trad 1.1. Soho Crag
HS 4b Father's Day Sport 17m 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
HS Birds Nest Soup Trad 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
5a Shunthunt Sport 27m, 12 1.3. Soho East
1 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
Pinhead Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
5 Ming Dynasty Sport 27m, 12 1.1. Soho Crag
Stauntons Cafe Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Bladerunner Sport 40m, 2 1.3. Soho East
Loki Sport 1.3. Soho East
The Nostril Sport 1.3. Soho East
Do I Make You Horny ? Sport 9m 1.4. Austin Powers
Fat Bastard Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
Mini More Sport 9m, 3 1.4. Austin Powers
Unnamed Route Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
5b 2 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
8 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
VS 4b No Roots Allowed Trad 1.3. Soho East
VS 4c Birds Nest Direct Trad 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
5c 3 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
Slab Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Big Bird Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
5+ Centraline Sport 22m 1.1. Soho Crag
Club 64 Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Old Bailey Sport 27m, 12 1.1. Soho Crag
HVS 5a Thunderbolt Trad 47m, 2 1.1. Soho Crag
6a Club 64 alternate end Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Lan Kwai Fong Sport 20m 1.1. Soho Crag
Arbuthnot Flakes Sport 1.3. Soho East
Beal Sport 1.3. Soho East
Gold Member Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
Vulcan probe Sport 24m 1.4. Austin Powers
4 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
Fourway Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Batman and Robbed Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
Golliwogal Lives Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
6a+ Centralsauras Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Scare Master Sport 25m 1.1. Soho Crag
Electric Sheep Sport 27m, 12 1.3. Soho East
Mini Me Sport 8m 1.4. Austin Powers
Yeah Baby! Sport 18m 1.4. Austin Powers
Sunny Side Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Independence Day Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Blood and Water Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
The Joker Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
The Riddler Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
6b The Escalator Sport 1.1. Soho Crag
Overhanging cave crack Sport 1.2. Soho West
6 Sport 1.5. Lost Crag
Wife on Vacation Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
iCarumba Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Battle of the Bulge Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Black Magic Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
6b+ Peel Street Sport 20m 1.1. Soho Crag
Hillfire Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Route 55 Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Trousers Off Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
E2 5b Thin Line Trad 15m 1.1. Soho Crag
6c Cave Dweller Top rope 1.2. Soho West
Easter Sunday Sport 1.2. Soho West
Number One Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
Dan Pai Dong Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
La Dolce Vita Sport 15m 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Fourway alternative finish Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Road to Damascus Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Rebar Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
Brainstorm Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
Lascar Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
6c+ Dr. Evil Sport 12m 1.4. Austin Powers
Single Malt Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
Contribution Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
7a La Dolce Vita (Left) Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Robocop Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
7a+ Cryogeny Sport 8m 1.4. Austin Powers
Super Spy Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
7b Concrete Poetry Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
Out with the Old Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
7b+ Backyard Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Human Condition Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
7c Catch me if you can Sport 1.8. Cave Crag
7c+ Defroster Sport 1.4. Austin Powers
Vita Dura Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
8a Alliance Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
Artwork Sport 1.7. Mid Levels Crag
8b Local Spirits Sport 1.6. Forgotten Buttress
8 Unbeatable Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag
? 5 Trad 1.5. Lost Crag
7 Trad 1.5. Lost Crag
Orange Gutter Sport 1.9. Bird's Nest Crag