Routes as sport in Central Crag

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Showing all 90 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Soho Crag
5 Ming Dynasty

Retrobolted in 2017 with new anchor. Was VS 4c.

FA: Tom Chew & Ed Pramuk, 2005

Sport 27m, 12
5+ Club 64

New anchor (2017).

6a Club 64 alternate end Sport
5+ Old Bailey

Retrobolted in 2017 with new anchor. Was HVS 5a

FA: Tom Chew & Ed Pramuk, 2005

Sport 27m, 12
6a+ Scare Master

Start up the bolted thin crack at left end of the wall and establish yourself beneath the small roof and arête. Search frantically for any good holds above the roof before quickly yarding your way up to the security of the steep slab above. Follow the delightful arête above on its left side, clipping bolts around the corner on The Escalator, to the top of the wall. New anchor (2017).

Sport 25m
6b The Escalator

New anchor (2017).

6a+ Centralsauras

New anchor (2017).

4 Aprils Fool

Above Centralsauras.

5+ Centraline

Retrobolted. Was E1 5a (trad). New anchor (2017).

Sport 22m
6b+ Peel Street

Make big moves on good holds up the steep wall and then trend slightly right as the angle eases off, crossing over Thin Line, to reach a steep blank looking wall where the real fun begins. New anchor (2017).

Sport 20m
6a Lan Kwai Fong Sport 20m
5 Stauntons Cafe

P1 : 4 P2 : Botanical Gardens. Can be climbed with a 60m rope

Soho West
{FR} UK:S Castle Steps

Start in the left corner of the crag at a small gum tree. Climb the slab to the intersection with the rear overhanging wall. Pass over a small overhanging protrusion in the middle of the wall above and finish up and left to the high bolted anchor atop Aprils Fool.

6b Overhanging cave crack Sport
4 Round About Sport
6c Easter Sunday

FA: Martin Lancaster, 2006

Soho East
{FR} 6a Arbuthnot Flakes Sport
6a Beal

Start as for Loki.

5 Loki

Start as for The Nostril.

{FR} 5 The Nostril Sport
{FR} 4 The nose Sport
5 Bladerunner
1 3+ 12m
2 5 28m

A titillating romp up the prominent knife blade arête just left of the main Soho crag. This route will get you going with exposure even though the overall angle is gentle.

Sport 40m, 2
6a+ Electric Sheep

FA: Brian Smeets, Feb 2017

Sport 27m, 12
5a Shunthunt

FA: Gianfranco Bigazzi, Feb 2017

Sport 27m, 12
Austin Powers
{FR} 4 Old Peak Route Sport 25m
{FR} 6a+ Mini Me Sport 8m
{FR} 5 Mini More

Same anchor than Mini Me.

Sport 9m, 3
{FR} 6a Gold Member Sport
7a+ Cryogeny

Same anchor than Gold Member.

Sport 8m
{FR} 6c Number One

Same start than Cryogeny. Same anchor than Gold Member.

{FR} 7c+ Defroster Sport
{FR} 7a+ Super Spy

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2011

{FR} 6c+ Dr. Evil Sport 12m
{FR} 4 Shagadelic

Same anchor than Super Spy.

Sport 23m
{FR} 4 Central on Central

Resin bolts. Same anchor as Yeah Baby!

{FR} 6a+ Yeah Baby!

Expansion bolts. New anchor (2017).

Sport 18m
5 Unnamed Route

Resin bolt.

{FR} 6a Vulcan probe

Its onset is just right of Yeah Baby! Climbs easy slab to bulge with interesting moves over the top with great hand pocket just when you crave it most. Easier climbing above with some worthy single moves if easiest route is avoided. Alternative lines over the bulge can be climbed on either side sharing same bolts.

Sport 24m
{FR} 4 Feeling Groovy

Most prominent traditional line right in the middle of this bulgy section of the lower crag. Very fun opening moves into layback on crack, then easier climbing above, with some run-outs especially in upper portion. Optional finish at tree (halfway), or climb all the way to bolted anchor with longer runout. Retrobolted in 2013.

FA: Ed Pramuk & Phyllis Hsia, 2007

Sport 23m
{FR} 5 Fat Bastard

New anchor (2017).

5 Do I Make You Horny ?

New anchor (2017).

Sport 9m
{FR} 4a International Man of Mystery

New anchor (2017).

Sport 17m
Lost Crag
5a 1 Sport
5b 2 Sport
5c 3 Sport
6a 4 Sport
6b 6 Sport
5b 8 Sport
Forgotten Buttress
5c Slab Sport
{FR} 6b iCarumba

Climb the slabby corner system at the left side of the crag until it is possible to pull into the vertical crag. Ascend this tentatively to reach overlaps high up. Tricky moves through this bring the anchors and lower off. New anchor (2017).

FA: Tom Chew & Andrew Irwin, 2006

{FR} 7b+ Backyard

A superb climb up the blank looking face. Start up the corner as for iCarumba until it is possible to step out on to the face using small footholds and even smaller crimps. With luck a hard move up and right brings more positive holds and a short respite for the fingers (Note: those shorter than about 5’10” will find this hard for F7b+ but, hey ho, such is life…). Continue up the wall above via flakes and crimps to join iCarumba at the overlap. Shared anchor with iCarumba.

FA: Laurent Jacob (2011)Nikolai Ng on Local Spirit, 2011

{FR} 8b Local Spirits

A stunning and desperate climb up the right side of the face. Climb the short groove to a large slopey jug. Launch up the face above via small crimps and flakes to reach a brief ‘rest’ at a good undercut and prepare yourself as the crux is still to come. Continue up the wall on tiny crimps until dynamic moves bring the top of the wall.

{FR} 8a Alliance

Little in the way of independent climbing, combining the bottom of the Laurent’s Project and the top of Backyard, but a worthwhile addition none the less. Climb the short steep groove to the slopey jug and a brief rest. Continue up the wall above using small crimps and flakes to reach a positive undercut/sidepull. Launch left from here via small sidepulls and crimps to join the upper part of Backyard. Finish as for that route.

{FR} 6b Wife on Vacation

The crack system separating the two halves of Forgotten Buttress involves interesting climbing in the lower half followed by more amenable moves in the top half. Awkward start. New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6c Dan Pai Dong

Follow the crack of Wife on Vacation until level with the overhang on the buttress to the right. From here move right and pull through the roof to finish as for La Dolce Vita.

{FR} 7b+ Human Condition

The slab to right of Wife on Vacation yields only to immaculate technique, strong fingers and the ability to levitate up using miniscule footholds. Desperate moves on small foot holds and sidepulls low down eventually lead to more user friendly holds in the upper part of the slab. These in turn lead to a good rest beneath the overhang and head wall. Pull through the roof on good holds before trending up and left using holds on the wall and arete to reach the top of the headwall.

{FR} 6c La Dolce Vita

One of the best routes of its grade at Central Crag (or indeed, in Hong Kong). Start in the centre of the slab, about 3 m left of the large concrete buttress. Delicately climb up the bulging slab (avoiding the concrete block and metal stubbs) to reach good undercut holds and steeper walls above. From here you can either continue directly up the steep wall using well spaced crimps or scamper off right and follow the crack and flake line. Either approach leads to a small ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Rest well before launching through the roof and establishing yourself on the wall above. Climb this, trending up and right, to reach the anchor at its top.

Sport 15m
{FR} 7a La Dolce Vita (Left)

Follow Dolce Vita until you’ve pulled through the roof and are established on the headwall. Finish up and left as for Human Condition.

7c+ Vita Dura

Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. Good holds lead through the small overhanging section and to the bottom of the steep arete. This feature is followed either through delicate palming up the arete itself or via steep dynamic moves up the arete and wall to the left. Either way, initial hard moves lead to a more relaxing finish.

6a+ Sunny Side

Climb the wall and concrete buttress on the right side of the crag before following the bulging wall above to reach a good rest at the ledge beneath the hanging headwall. From here move around the corner in order to access the slabby wall above. Climb this using cracks and crimps to reach the top of the buttress. New anchor (2017).

Mid Levels Crag
{FR} 6b+ Route 55

The short corner/groove system at the left side of the crag. Start using either a big dyno or a stiff pull before continuing awkwardly up the wall above. New anchor (2017).

{FR} 8a Artwork

Shared anchor with Route 55.

{FR} 6c+ Single Malt

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6c Road to Damascus

Same anchor than Single Malt.

{FR} 6a Fourway

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6c Fourway alternative finish

Follow the technical thin slab via the corner crack to the right.

{FR} 6b Battle of the Bulge

Start as for Four Ways.

{FR} 6a+ Independence Day

New anchor (2017).

{FR} 6b+ Hillfire Sport
{UK} VD Off Width Ramp Sport 7m
{UK} HS 4b Father's Day Sport 17m
Cave Crag
6a+ Blood and Water Sport
{FR} 6a+ The Joker

Avoid toproping, prefer abseiling from the anchor.

7c Catch me if you can

Start as for the Joker.

{FR} 6a+ The Riddler Sport
{FR} 6a Batman and Robbed

Bolted by Ed, stolen by the above, hence the name. Same anchor than The Riddler.

FA: Dick & Jim Gray

{FR} 6c Rebar

FA: Stuart Millis

{FR} 5a Pinhead

Same anchor than Rebar.

Bird's Nest Crag
{FR} 6b Black Magic Sport
{FR} 7b Out with the Old Sport
{FR} 5c Big Bird Sport
{FR} 6c Lascar

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 6c+ Contribution

Start as Lascar using the first bolt before moving right.

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 7b Concrete Poetry

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

{FR} 8 Unbeatable

Set by Laurent Jacob, 2012

FA: Rocky Lok, 2013

{FR} 6c Brainstorm

FA: Laurent Jacob, 2012

Orange Gutter Sport
{FR} 6a Golliwogal Lives Sport
{FR} 6b+ Trousers Off Sport
{FR} 7a Robocop Sport

Showing all 90 routes.