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Description

Single pitch sport climbs on solid volcanic rock in a highly sociable setting make Technical Wall by far Hong Kongs most popular crag. Its worth noting that Technical Wall can get very busy on Sundays and Public Holidays and crowds in excess of 50 people at the wall have been seen.

36 Sport Routes between 10m and 20m in length Grades from F4+ to F8a+. 20 minute easy approach walk from ferry pier. Sunny aspect in the morning and pleasant sea breeze on hot days.

Access issues inherited from Tung Lung Chau

A ferry runs to Tung Lung Chau from Sai Wan Ho typhoon shelter (exit A1 from Sai Wan Ho MTR Station and walk rightwards to the coastline) on weekends and most Public Holidays.

A ferry also runs from the pier at Sam Ka Tsuen, Lei Yue Mun (approach by taxi from Lam Tin MTR Station).

Weekday access: Sampans (for up to 4 people) can usually be rented from the typhoon shelter at Sai Wan Ho by just showing up and haggling with the boat operator. A speed boat (with capacity for 10 people) can be arranged by calling Mr Cheng at: 9080 3754.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
FR 5+ Hourglass Crack Unknown
2
variation start Sport 13m

Avoid the wide crack of Hourglass Crack by climbing the arete to the left.

F.A. Unknown

3
FR 7b Skylink Unknown
4
FR 7b+ So Unknown
5
FR 6c+ * Black Ring Sport
6
FR 6c+ Chevalier Hotline Unknown
7
FR 7b *** Kung Fu Sport
8
FR 7c The Breaking Unknown
9

FA: G%e9r%f4me Pouvreau

10
FR 8b Project Unknown
11
FR 7c+ *** Tung Lung Bad Boy Sport
12
FR 6c+ *** The Corner Sport
13
FR 7b+ *** Dimple Face Sport
14
FR 7b * Curly Unknown
15
FR 7c *** Jolly Boy Sport
16
FR 7c+ ** Sky Project Sport
17
FR 7a+ *** Naughty Boy Sport
18
FR 8a *** Naughty Dragon Sport
19
FR 7c * Oriental Pearl Sport
20
FR 7a *** Purple Heart Sport
21
FR 6a+ * Big Hand Sport 14m
22
FR 6c * Depeche Mode Unknown
23
FR 7a+ * Wonderful Souvenir Sport
24
FR 6a+ * The Funnel Unknown
25
FR 6c+ Bad Girl Sport
26
FR 6a+ ** The Small Roof Sport 14m

Probably the most popular climb on Technical Wall and deservedly so. Follows the obvious corner system heading up to the left hand side of the overhang high on the face. Reach through the roof for a good side pull and pull through to the pocket above. Make final tricky moves up the wall above to the lower off.

FA. Unknown

27
FR 6c+ The Big Roof Sport
28
FR 6c+ * Bad Man Unknown
29
FR 5+ * The Black Corner Unknown
30
FR 5+ * The Black Face Sport 13m

Climb the slabby wall to the right of Bad Man.

FA. Unknown

31
FR 5+ 27 Unknown
32
FR 4+ ** The Black Crack Unknown 13m
33
FR 5+ * Inverted V Unknown
34
FR 4 *** The Chimney Unknown
35
FR 5 Chimney Wall Unknown
36
FR 5 Cave Rib Unknown
37
FR 6c The Sky and the Ocean Unknown
38
FR 6a Slab Sport 13m

Climb the thin slabby wall. A slightly harder direct start is possible pulling through the small roof.

FA. Unknown

39
FR 4+ * Merry Christmas Sport 12m

Climb the slabby wall to the right of Bad Man.

FA. Unknown