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Seasonality
Access issues inherited from South Face of Marmolada
Designated
Descent:
"Getting up is only half the battle" (Confucious Caeser Messner, ca. 1453)
Due to the epic size of the South Face of Marmolada, the descent (in decent time present its own various difficulties.
Cablecar from Punta Rocca / Serauta --> Malga Ciapela. If you are fast, up until 4pm you can catch this cablecar from Punta Rocca back down.
Hike down towards the middle cablecar station (Serauta). Shortly before reaching it, turn left onto the ski slopes. Follow them up to the Fedaia pass where the refuge of the same name is found (2057 Mt.). From here return to Malga Ciapela (useful to have 2 cars or hitchhiking).
Ethic inherited from South Face of Marmolada
The South Face of Marmolada, like many areas in the Dolomites, has a long history of bold, cutting-edge alpinism and rock climbs.
The ethic is predominantly mixed, however pitons are often favoured over bolts in sections that are difficult to protect with traditional gear.
On any given climb, expect to place traditional protection through most pitches, and also to back up/reinforce some anchors. Generally, the crux sections or hard pitches of a climb will be better protected with pitons, due to many parties slowly reinforcing difficult sections over time.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Maurizio Giordani
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9788885475021
A selective guidebook covering Marmolada’s south face, the highest mountain in the Dolomites, describing 192 multi-pitch routes with many of them between 300m and 800m long.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Tue 25 Apr
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