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Approach

Access this area from Quintino Sella Hut (2.00 hrs hike from Pian del Re car park) for the east and south face, and Vallanta Hut for the west face. North face can be accessed from all huts and approach needs extensive planning.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
UIAA 3 *** Via Normale - South Face Unknown 1000m

This is the Hiker's route on the south face and the typical way to descent from the summit. The start of the route begins at the "Andreotti" bivouac, a hut used only for emergency. This hut can be approached from either Varaita Valley or Quintino Sella Hut, over the Forciolline Pass. The best time to attempt this climb is between the last week of August and mid September, where ice and snow have disappeared and the rock is stabilized. In this period crampons and ice gear are generally not necessary but parties usually start the route roped and wearing helmets and head torches. The route is signed by yellow marks and it takes normally 6 hours to reach the cross on the summit.

FA: William Mathews, Frederick Jacomb, Jean Baptiste Croz e Michel Croz 1861

2
UIAA 4 to 5- *** Cresta Est - Eastern Flank Trad 1100m

This multipitch is best climbed from mid-August to mid-September where all rocks are stable and ice and snow disappeared from chimneys and canyons. From Pian Del Re carpark (2020m above sea level), hike for 2h and 45min to Quintino Sella Hut (2640m). From the hut hike up to the Viso pass. From the pass you can see two gigantic steep canyons. The right-one called "Canale del Lago Grande" is the beginning of the eastern flank route (2700m). The route is a series of pitches of small walls, chimneys and pinnacles alternate with scrambles of easy to medium difficulty. The most direct route (avoiding the Roberts Tower) will take 4.5 to 6 hrs to the summit. Descent is made through the safer Via Normale on the southern face and will take an extra 4 to 5 hours. The eastern flank route is equipped of few bolts and belay stations on the most difficult places and is marked sparsely by yellow and red marks but the line follows the main flank to the top and is very intuitive. The altitude (summit at 3841m above sea level) will add a severe difficulty to an technically easy climbing route. Typically the climb can be done in three days with two nights at the hut (booking required).

FA: E. Kind/A. Kind/U. Valbusa/A. Weber, 1902

3

FA: W. Coolidge/C. Almer 1881

9
Couloir Nordest Alpine 1800m
10
Cresta Berhault Alpine 2000m

FA: Patrile/Tranchero, 1968

11
Canale Perotti Ice 1900m
13

FA: Andrea Parodi e Giorgio Massone, 2007

14
Super Diretta Ice 1100m

FA: Federico Varengo e Alberto Fantone, 2005

15
6b Via Regina di PIetra Alpine 740m

FA: Ezio Rinaudo, Alberto Fantone, 2005