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description

Gear
A full set of Friends from 0.4 - 6 BD. Two #5 and #6 recommended.

Route history

19 May 1974First ascent: Roberto Bonelli, Danilo Galante & Piero Lenzi

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 45.44243, 7.27073

Grade citation

6a+ Assigned grade
6a+ private

ethic

Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.

Bolts
are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.

Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.

Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.

inherited from Valle Orco

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 2
Attempt 2
Target 1

Comment keywords

short

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): P. Seimandi

Date: 2020

100 ausgewählten Rissklettereien von komplett durchgebohrt bis zu komplett selbst abzusichern - von 6 m bis hin zu 160 m.

Author(s): M. Oviglia

Date: 2010

This climbing guide describes climbing gardens close to the valley as well as the well-known alpine walls of the Sergent, Caporal and at the Colle del Nivolet.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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