Pensieri Lontani 6c

==[it]==

Via molto bella segue un diedro di oltre 100 m con due traversi: uno per entrare ed uno per uscire, primo tiro comune con 'Diedro freddo' (per ora)

1. a dx di un grande blocco poi muretto difficile, non salire alla sosta di 'Diedro freddo' ma a dx verso due spit da collegare (ometto) [2 spit]

2. dal primo spit inizia il traverso a dx, prendere una cornice e traversare al secondo spit. Da qui salire ad una tacca che permette di moschettonare il terzo spit scendere un metro e continuare a traversare a dx sino a un bordo rotondo, ancora uno spit per superare un ciuffo d'erba e super lama che porta in sosta [5 spit]

3. tiro lungo... lama larga poi nel diedro con difficoltà e con arrampicata continua sino alla sosta [3 spit]

4. ancora nel diedro e uscita a dx su spit da collegare [0 spit]

5. salire allo spit poi traverso a sx di 10 mt, ribaltamento su tettino e in breve alla sosta su rododendri [3 spit]

6. a sx entrare in un breve camino e arrivo su terrazza. In alto spit che porta a scalare un bel tetto a "Z" in uscita in alto a dx due spit di sosta. In breve in cima... eventualmente si può spezzare il tiro alla cengia preparando una sosta per meglio assicurare il tetto [1 spit]

==[en]==

Really nice route ollowing a dihedral for more than 100 m with two traverses: one to get into it and the other to exit. First pitch in common with 'Diedro freddo' (at the moment).

1. right to start big bouder, then hard section. Do not go for the stance of 'Diedro freddo' ' but to the right towards two bolts which need to be connected (cairn) [2 bolts]

2. Start from the first bolt traversing right, grab a cornice and keep traversing to the second bolt. Go up to a crimp from where you can clip the third bolt then go down one meter and keep traversing right till a round edge. Another bolt to go over some grass and then super-flake to reach the stance [5 bolts]

3. long pitch ... large flake then dihedral with sustained hard climbing till the stance [3 bolts]

4. stay in the dihedral and then exit rigth on bolts to be connected [0 bolts]

5. Go up to the bolt then travers left for 10 m, go over the roof and shortly after to the stance between rhododendrons [1 bolt]

6. enter in a short chimney to the left to a terrace. Up toward bolt which leads to nice 'Z' roof, while exiting two bolt for the top right stance, shortly after to the top. (You might split the pitch creating a stance on the terrace to better protect the roof) [1 bolt]

Renowned for its incredible crack systems, there is a predominantly clean climbing ethic in Valle Orco.

Bolts

are often placed for anchors & abseils, but are otherwise strongly discouraged where natural protection can be placed.

Even so, there are a fair number of sport/bolted climbs in the valley. Talk to local climbers/guides before considering putting in bolts, bolts are permanent.

Some classics crack climbs, bolted in mania of sport climbing in the 80's/90's, have since had their bolts removed.