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Summary

More famous for some nice CRACK!

Approach

From Highway 141 take the small road west near Umijiri Station 海尻駅. There are a few small parking areas on the sides of the road. 4x4 vehilces will be able to get closer than reglar cars.

Either way the approach is 5-15min

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The route name translates as "A man of mystery"

2

The route name translates as "A man of mystery". This climb is not bolted, top rope only.

4

Climb the arete adjacent to 'Cork Screw' Start is protected with F#2.5, followed by bolts.

5
5.9 *** Cork Screw Trad
8
5.8 8x4 Trad
10
5.10c Kita Yama Face Sport 3
18
5.10d * Telepathy Trad
19

Thin Finger Crack. Gear fr this route = RP #2~3, C3 #000, Rock and Roller #2~3. Death, Death, Death

21
24

The name translates as "Clown"

25
5.8 Degenaa Trad
26
5.10b * Foresight Trad

Activity

Check out what is happening in Yukawa.