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40min Walk from the Carpark

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work ( but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.


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Grade Route
5.12c *** Iwa no Dendo / 岩の殿堂 Mixed 37m, 2, 6

Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。 A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route.


Starts on huge jugs and big features, but quickly changes to very small holds and bad feet just as the wall starts to become overhung. The crux of the climb is the last 5m. Save your energy and your nerves for the top section as it is very technical, pumpy and run out. This is a great climb and should be attempted at least once.

5.12a *** Suna no Tou / 砂の塔 Sport 30m, 8

hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.

5.11a * Departure Trad 12m

Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang.

5.10c Celebrating Spring Trad 15m

C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams


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