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head up the same approach as Toichimen- Mattannheki. After passing the second large boulder (first is Kumiko) veer straight up the Gully rather then following the path to the right. Continue to head straight up the gully till you reach the stunning wall of Jigoku Area.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.


View timeline of historical ascents

エリアの情報はロクスノ #55 にチラッと出ています


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Grade Route
5.11b *** Canoe / カヌー Trad 28m

Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.



FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

Set by Kadoya Takara, 2005


FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

5.10b Original Pitch 1 Trad 20m

FFA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

5.10a Original Pitch 2 Boulder 12m

FFA: Kadoya Takara


Check out what is happening in Jigoku Area.