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Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.


head up the same approach as Toichimen- Mattannheki. After passing the second large boulder (first is Kumiko) veer straight up the Gully rather then following the path to the right. Continue to head straight up the gully till you reach the stunning wall of Jigoku Area.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association ( is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.


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エリアの情報はロクスノ #55 にチラッと出ています


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Starts out with 20m of finger cracks and then widens for the last 10m to a slightly flaring large hands /fist size crack to top out. This is a fantastic climb. This is a continuos climb with no real rests the entire length, there are however several great hand jam pockets that are placed at the perfect places to de-pump and place your next bit of gear. This is a must do and a real contender for top 5 best climbs at Mizugaki.


FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

Set by Kadoya Takara, 2005

FA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

FFA: Kadoya Takara, 2005

FFA: Kadoya Takara


Check out what is happening in Jigoku Area.