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The main climbing area for Jo-yama

Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.


From Ohito station, the bulk of Joyama is obvious. Turn left out of the station, first left & follow the road under the train tracks and left at the main road, over the bridge and right along the river to the well-marked start of the trail. The walking trail leads up through bamboo groves and forests, and drops you right in the middle of the South Face near Battlerunner.

Ethic inherited from Jo-yama

Some trad, mostly bolted sports routes, single pitch and multi-pitch


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Grade Route

there is a variante in 5.11d

1 5.10a
2 5.10a
3 5.10c
4 5.10a
5 5.10a
6 5.9

This is the longest and most classic multi-pitch route up the South face of Jo-Yama. The entire 6 pitch route is protected by bolts which is typical for most climbs in this area.

Good introduction to slabby face climbing on Joyama andesite. This is slabby face climbing, with many small solution pockets, few of them positive, so reasonably delicate climbing with footwork being important.

Start of LHS of South Wall. Follow the line of bolts directly up, the well protected crux is near the top. Note the route sequence is from the topo in the guide book

1 5.9
2 5.10a
3 5.7
4 5.9

Great 4 pitch sport route right up the middle of the main face directly through 2 overlaps and a roof. Crux is getting through the roof on P2 and its quite a hard 10a - but well protected. P2 could really do with re-bolting, there are some dodgy bolts and hangers there apart from the crux. Excellent climbing on clean rock, good exposure and views. Pity it doesn't top out, but given the rockfall danger to the busy path below, its probably a good idea.

Descent Options: Rap the route. You can do it with a single 60m rope, but if you drag a 2nd rope up you'll get down much faster.

1 5.10a
2 5.9
3 5.7

same start as "Gypsy Mary"

1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.5
4 5.5
5 5.9
6 5.8
1 5.7
2 5.9
3 5.10a
1 5.10d
2 5.7
3 5.7

Route #40 of Minami Kabe sector of Joyama in Japanese guidebook.

Route #45 of the Minami Kabe sector of Toyama in the Japanese guidebook. 7 or 8 bolts to the anchor.


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