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Table of contents

1. Yane Iwa P2 25 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.638040, 35.914316

Access Issues: inherited from Ogawayama

Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Jet Stream / ジェットストリーム

Slab Traverse

5.10b Sport 2
2 Yousorou / ヨーソロー 5.11a Sport
3 Gypsy / ジプシー

Slab Route located above Jet Stream

5.9 Sport
4 Mizusumashi / 水すまし 5.8 Sport
5 Tentoumushi / てんとうむし 5.11d Sport
6 Katatsumuri / かたつむり

Mixture of crack and face climbing.

The start of the climb is protected with 4 bolts, the remainder of climb is NP (F#3, R1, F#2.5)

5.12c Sport
7 ** Chitty Chitty Bang Bang / ちきちき・ばんばん

The bolts might look in the wrong place, but once you have a good look at the route and rock around, you will notice that they are about right.

5.11b Sport
8 ** Kabutomushi / かぶとむし

Beautiful arete climb

5.12a Sport
9 ** Koganemushi / こがねむし 5.12a Sport
10 Prism / プリズム 5.10c Sport
11 Abracadabura / アブラカだブラ 5.11a Sport
12 Aurora No.2 / オーロラ Ⅱ号 5.10d Sport 30m
13 Curry Syndrome / カレーシンドローム 5.10d Sport 30m
14 ** Dark Crystal / ダーク・クリスタル 5.9 Sport
15 *** Selection #2-peak
  1. Hand (5.8)

  2. Slab (5.8)

  3. Wide (5.7)

  4. Wide-Slab (5.6)

  5. Slab (5.8)

  6. Hand (5.8)


5.8 Trad 100m 6
16 *** Kumo no ito / 蜘蛛の糸

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

5.11b Trad 23m
17 Chawan Mushi / ちゃわんむし 5.11a Sport
18 Aburamushi / アブラムシ 5.12a Sport
19 * Kogure dai Saakasu / コグレ大サーカス 5.10c Sport
20 * Kareki wo Otoshita Yo! / 枯れ木を落としたよ!

Route Name means "I dropped a dead tree!"

5.11a Trad
21 * Otegara Bruce-San 5.12c Sport
22 * Kumo no Jinjuurou / 蜘蛛の神十郎

Route name means " Team of Spiders"

5.12c Sport
23 ** Nanryu Kanagawa Route

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

  1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

  2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

  3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

  4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

5.8 Trad 150m 4
24 ** South Ledge - Lemon #3-peak
  1. Face

  2. Face-Slab

  3. OW

  4. Face-III


5.8 Trad 100m 4
25 *** Nanryou Remon Route - South Ridge Lemon Route

Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

  1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

  2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

  3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

  4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

  5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

5.8 Trad 150m 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 Mizusumashi Sport
*** Nanryou Remon Route - South Ridge Lemon Route Trad 150m 5
** Nanryu Kanagawa Route Trad 150m 4
*** Selection #2-peak Trad 100m 6
** South Ledge - Lemon #3-peak Trad 100m 4
5.9 ** Dark Crystal Sport
Gypsy Sport
5.10b *** Jet Stream Sport 2
5.10c * Kogure dai Saakasu Sport
Prism Sport
5.10d Aurora No.2 Sport 30m
Curry Syndrome Sport 30m
5.11a Abracadabura Sport
Chawan Mushi Sport
* Kareki wo Otoshita Yo! Trad
Yousorou Sport
5.11b ** Chitty Chitty Bang Bang Sport
*** Kumo no ito Trad 23m
5.11d Tentoumushi Sport
5.12a Aburamushi Sport
** Kabutomushi Sport
** Koganemushi Sport
5.12c Katatsumuri Sport
* Kumo no Jinjuurou Sport
* Otegara Bruce-San Sport