Topo #3866

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Topo Routes resequence
Area Type
? Yane Iwa Sanpou

More Ogawayama granite

Crag Unlink area
? Yane Iwa P2
Crag Unlink area
? Yane Iwa Yonpou
Crag Unlink area

屋根岩2峰

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
1 *** Jet Stream

Slab Traverse

5.10b Sport Unlink route
2 Yousorou
5.11a Sport Unlink route
3 Gypsy

Slab Route located above Jet Stream

5.9 Sport Unlink route
4 Mizusumashi
5.8 Sport Unlink route
5 Tentoumushi
5.11d Sport Unlink route
6 Katatsumuri

Mixture of crack and face climbing. The start of the climb is protected with 4 bolts, the remainder of climb is NP (F#3, R1, F#2.5)

5.12c Sport Unlink route
7 ** Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

The bolts might look in the wrong place, but once you have a good look at the route and rock around, you will notice that they are about right.

5.11b Sport Unlink route
8 ** Kabutomushi

Beautiful arete climb

5.12a Sport Unlink route
9 ** Koganemushi
5.12a Sport Unlink route
10 Prism
5.10c Sport Unlink route
11 Abracadabura
5.11a Sport Unlink route
12 Aurora No.2
5.10d Sport 30m Unlink route
13 Curry Syndrome
5.10d Sport 30m Unlink route
14 ** Dark Crystal
5.9 Sport Unlink route
15 *** Selection #2-peak

1. Hand (5.8) 2. Slab (5.8) 3. Wide (5.7) 4. Wide-Slab (5.6) 5. Slab (5.8) 6. Hand (5.8) *NP

5.8 Trad 100m Unlink route
16 *** Kumo no ito

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall. The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

5.11b Trad 23m Unlink route
23 ** Nanryu Kanagawa Route

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou. 1) First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1. 2) Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts). 3) 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay. 4) Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

5.8 Trad 150m Unlink route
24 ** South Ledge - Lemon #3-peak

1. Face 2. Face-Slab 3. OW 4. Face-III *NP

5.8 Trad 100m Unlink route