A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Nishimatazawa Taigan 18 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 138.644136, 35.903795

Access Issues: inherited from Ogawayama_小川山

Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/

1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Casablanca / カサブランカ

*NP

5.10aTrad 25m
2 * Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo / Return of the New Route King 5.11cSport 20m
3 ** Kawakami Kouta / 川上小唄 / Kawakami's Song

The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

5.8Sport 15m
4 Santao XXX

The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

5.8Sport 15m
5 * Black Hole

A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

5.12bSport 20m
6 * Irregular

The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

5.10dSport 20m
7 ** Regular / レグラー

The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.

5.10bSport 25m
8 ** Blues Power

The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.

5.11cSport 15m
9 Juggernaut

A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

5.12aSport 25m
10 ** Rocky Road

The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.

5.12aSport 25m
11 ** Cassiopeia Kidou / カシオピア軌道 5.10bSport
12 ** Jack to Mame No Ki / ジャックと豆の木 5.10cSport
13 *** Silk Road / シルクロード 5.12bSport
14 * Holiday

ホリデー

5.9Mixed 1
15 ** Mood wa ii-sen / ムードはいい線 5.9Trad

1.2. RiverSide 0 routes in Sector

1.3. Aniiwa 0 routes in Sector

Description:©

The low white slab and golden buttresses directly across the river from the lodge. An excellent and popular venue. The lower slab, in particular, gets very crowded.

Approach:©

Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn that marks the start of a path on the opposite bank. Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path a short way into the woods. Where it steepens, drop down left for the lower slab, or follow the path up and right for the upper walls.

1.4. Chichi Iwa 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:©

The twin slabs, the left one squat and light, the right one slender and dark, high on the hill just across the river from the lodge offer excellent slab-climbing, but can be top-rope hell.

Approach:©

Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn that marks the start of a path on the opposite bank. Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path, skirting Ani Iwa on its right. From the back of Ani Iwa, follow a path across to Mamako Iwa. You can also reach this point from Otouto Iwa. The path continues straight up the hill to the foot of the lefthand slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ogawayama Story / 小川山物語

Fantastic route - straight up the white streak on the narrow slab.

5.9Sport 30m, 5
2 ** Ogawayama Street / 小川山ストリート

Another excellent route tot eh right of Ogawayama Story. Start a bit up and right of OS and straight up. The last bolts are a bit spaced, and crux at the top...

5.9Sport 26m, 5
3 Ku wa kuraimā no ku / クはクライマーのク

クはクライマーのク

5.10cSport 22m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.8 ** Kawakami Kouta Sport 15m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
Santao XXX Sport 15m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.9 * Holiday Mixed 1 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
** Mood wa ii-sen Trad 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
*** Ogawayama Story Sport 30m, 5 1.4. Chichi Iwa
** Ogawayama Street Sport 26m, 5 1.4. Chichi Iwa
5.10a *** Casablanca Trad 25m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.10b ** Cassiopeia Kidou Sport 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
** Regular Sport 25m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.10c ** Jack to Mame No Ki Sport 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
Ku wa kuraimā no ku Sport 22m 1.4. Chichi Iwa
5.10d * Irregular Sport 20m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.11c ** Blues Power Sport 15m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
* Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo Sport 20m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.12a Juggernaut Sport 25m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
** Rocky Road Sport 25m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
5.12b * Black Hole Sport 20m 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa
*** Silk Road Sport 1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa