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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 138.644136, 35.903795
- Access Issues: inherited from Ogawayama_小川山
Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/
Sport and Trad
Casablanca / カサブランカ
|2||Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo / Return of the New Route King||5.11c||20m|
Kawakami Kouta / 川上小唄 / Kawakami's Song
The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.
The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).
A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.
The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.
Regular / レグラー
The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.
The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.
A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.
The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.
|11||Cassiopeia Kidou / カシオピア軌道||5.10b|
|12||Jack to Mame No Ki / ジャックと豆の木||5.10c|
|13||Silk Road / シルクロード||5.12b|
|15||Mood wa ii-sen / ムードはいい線||5.9|
The low white slab and golden buttresses directly across the river from the lodge. An excellent and popular venue. The lower slab, in particular, gets very crowded.
Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn that marks the start of a path on the opposite bank. Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path a short way into the woods. Where it steepens, drop down left for the lower slab, or follow the path up and right for the upper walls.
The twin slabs, the left one squat and light, the right one slender and dark, high on the hill just across the river from the lodge offer excellent slab-climbing, but can be top-rope hell.
Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn that marks the start of a path on the opposite bank. Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path, skirting Ani Iwa on its right. From the back of Ani Iwa, follow a path across to Mamako Iwa. You can also reach this point from Otouto Iwa. The path continues straight up the hill to the foot of the lefthand slab.
Ogawayama Story / 小川山物語
Fantastic route - straight up the white streak on the narrow slab.
Ogawayama Street / 小川山ストリート
Another excellent route tot eh right of Ogawayama Story. Start a bit up and right of OS and straight up. The last bolts are a bit spaced, and crux at the top...
Ku wa kuraimā no ku / クはクライマーのク
|5.8||Kawakami Kouta||15m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Santao XXX||15m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.9||Holiday||1||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Mood wa ii-sen||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Ogawayama Story||530m,||1.4. Chichi Iwa|
|Ogawayama Street||526m,||1.4. Chichi Iwa|
|5.10a||Casablanca||25m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.10b||Cassiopeia Kidou||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Regular||25m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.10c||Jack to Mame No Ki||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Ku wa kuraimā no ku||22m||1.4. Chichi Iwa|
|5.10d||Irregular||20m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.11c||Blues Power||15m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo||20m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.12a||Juggernaut||25m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Rocky Road||25m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|5.12b||Black Hole||20m||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|
|Silk Road||1.1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa|