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Access issues inherited from Ogawayama_小川山

Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright www.ogawayama.com)

Routes

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Grade Route
3

The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

4
5.8 Santao XXX Sport 15m

The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

5
5.12b * Black Hole Sport 20m

A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

6
5.10d * Irregular Sport 20m

The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

7
5.10b ** Regular / レグラー Sport 25m

The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.

8
5.11c ** Blues Power Sport 15m

The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.

9
5.12a Juggernaut Sport 25m

A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

10
5.12a ** Rocky Road Sport 25m

The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.

14
5.9 * Holiday Mixed 1

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