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Table of contents

1. Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa 15 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Ogawayama

Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Casablanca / カサブランカ


5.10a Trad 25m
2 * Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo / Return of the New Route King 5.11c Sport 20m
3 ** Kawakami Kouta / 川上小唄 / Kawakami's Song

The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

5.8 Sport 15m
4 Santao XXX

The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

5.8 Sport 15m
5 * Black Hole

A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

5.12b Sport 20m
6 * Irregular

The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

5.10d Sport 20m
7 ** Regular / レグラー

The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.

5.10b Sport 25m
8 ** Blues Power

The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.

5.11c Sport 15m
9 Juggernaut

A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

5.12a Sport 25m
10 ** Rocky Road

The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.

5.12a Sport 25m
11 ** Cassiopeia Kidou / カシオピア軌道 5.10b Sport 2
12 ** Jack to Mame No Ki / ジャックと豆の木 5.10c Sport
13 *** Silk Road / シルクロード 5.12b Sport
14 * Holiday


5.9 Mixed 1
15 ** Mood wa ii-sen / ムードはいい線 5.9 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5.8 ** Kawakami Kouta Sport 15m
Santao XXX Sport 15m
5.9 * Holiday Mixed 1
** Mood wa ii-sen Trad
5.10a *** Casablanca Trad 25m
5.10b ** Cassiopeia Kidou Sport 2
** Regular Sport 25m
5.10c ** Jack to Mame No Ki Sport
5.10d * Irregular Sport 20m
5.11c ** Blues Power Sport 15m
* Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo Sport 20m
5.12a Juggernaut Sport 25m
** Rocky Road Sport 25m
5.12b * Black Hole Sport 20m
*** Silk Road Sport