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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
- Access Issues: inherited from Ogawayama_小川山
Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/
Casablanca / カサブランカ
|2||Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo / Return of the New Route King||5.11c||20m|
Kawakami Kouta / 川上小唄 / Kawakami's Song
The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.
The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).
A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.
The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.
Regular / レグラー
The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.
The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.
A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.
The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off.
|11||Cassiopeia Kidou / カシオピア軌道||5.10b||2|
|12||Jack to Mame No Ki / ジャックと豆の木||5.10c|
|13||Silk Road / シルクロード||5.12b|
|15||Mood wa ii-sen / ムードはいい線||5.9|
|Mood wa ii-sen|
|5.10c||Jack to Mame No Ki|
|Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo||20m|