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Summary

Lots of easy slabby goodness

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Description

The pile of slabby faces just past the big rockfall on the right of the Kimpu-san Highway. There are one or two gems to be found, especially higher up the hillside. Almost all the routes are on excellent rock.

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Access issues inherited from Ogawayama_小川山

Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/

Approach

Continue up the Kimpu-san Highway from Sagan Slab. About 20m after the big rockfall on the right (Nightnurse RIP), a cairn marks a small path leading up in 50m to the base of a broad, low-angled slab, which offers a choice of first pitches for Gamma Route. This path then skirts the slab on the left and leads up to the slab containing Gamma Route pitch 2. The path from the second cairn leads directly to the left edge of the lower slab.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright www.ogawayama.com)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.7 ** Keroyon Sport 25m

An excellent route for the grade. Keroyon is the name of a cartoon frog. Start a short way up the gully to the right of the toe of the slab. Pull steeply left onto the slab, smear up then step right and climb direct parallel to Gamma Route on marvellous holds to a lower-off. The distance between the second and third bolts is quite far, but the climbing is very easy.

2
5.9 * Braveheart Sport 27m

More pleasant slab climbing, re-routed by the Bolt Police. Start just right of the flake of Gamma Pitch 2. Climb direct to its dike. Pull up the scoop as for Gamma, but pull out left below the belay onto a slab. Follow the bolted line direct to a good ledge with a lower-off. You can just get down on a 50m rope.

3
5.10b * Heart & Soul Sport 27m

Tasty slabbing with a spicy crux. Climb the flake as for Gamma Route pitch 2. From the dike climb direct by thin moves to a sloping mantel (using the white line of holds on the left makes it 10a; the pegs up and left take you off-route). From here, it is best to step right and finish up Braveheart (the line of bolts - this is 26m and you can just get down on a 50m rope), but it is also possible to continue right to the chains on Gamma Route at the top of pitch 2 or to keep going boldly but pleasantly in a direct line up the slab, veering left to the lower-off on KC's Banana Cake or right to that of Braveheart.

4
5.10a * KC's Banana Cake Sport 30m

A disjointed but fun slab route with a tricky finish. Start at a small slab down and left of the main slab. Climb the centre of this to a gully on the right. Stride across between the trees and climb the continuation line up the next slab to another ledge. Finish up the short steep face above (crux). If you're using a 50m rope, ab or lower off as far as possible to the right (facing in), then scramble carefully down trees and choss for the last few metres (you can just about ab to the first bolt to clean the route then swing right to easy ground).

5
5.9 Monban no Musume Sport 13m

A just worthwhile slab route taking a slanting line up the left edge of the lefthand slab. Pull onto the slab at twin bolts, then step left and follow the left edge of the slab to a faint overlap. Make tricky moves through this to better holds, then step up to a lower-off.

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