Gamma Slabs All sport climbing5 routes in crag
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Lots of easy slabby goodness©
The pile of slabby faces just past the big rockfall on the right of the Kimpu-san Highway. There are one or two gems to be found, especially higher up the hillside. Almost all the routes are on excellent rock.©
Access issues inherited from Ogawayama
Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/
Continue up the Kimpu-san Highway from Sagan Slab. About 20m after the big rockfall on the right (Nightnurse RIP), a cairn marks a small path leading up in 50m to the base of a broad, low-angled slab, which offers a choice of first pitches for Gamma Route. This path then skirts the slab on the left and leads up to the slab containing Gamma Route pitch 2. The path from the second cairn leads directly to the left edge of the lower slab.©
Ethic inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.
The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright www.ogawayama.com)
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