Gamma Upper Mostly Sport climbing15 routes in sector
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Access issues inherited from Ogawayama
Much of the information about this crag is from the online guide http://www.ogawayama.com/
Approach as for Zoku Ojisan Iwa, but continue straight up the slope till you hit rock. There is actually more than one path, and where you hit rock depends on which branch you're on. At the left hand end is Magga Slab; in the centre is the impressive roof of Rebecca e no Kagi. To the right are the broken buttresses of Cassandra and Kappa (and eventually the path from the top of Gamma Route pitch 3). The routes are described from right to left.©
Ethic inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.
The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright www.ogawayama.com)
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