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This is basically the big slab and capping tower across to the left of the upper pitches of Gamma Route. And there's some good stuff up here.


Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.


Approach as for Zoku Ojisan Iwa, but continue straight up the slope till you hit rock. There is actually more than one path, and where you hit rock depends on which branch you're on. At the left hand end is Magga Slab; in the centre is the impressive roof of Rebecca e no Kagi. To the right are the broken buttresses of Cassandra and Kappa (and eventually the path from the top of Gamma Route pitch 3). The routes are described from right to left.


Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association ( is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright


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Grade Route

A much underrated route. Perhaps people are put off by the appearance of the first pitch. Don't be - the second is a beaut. Take a rack.

  1. 5.9 Climb a series of broken cracks and grooves up the centre of the first substantial face to belay on a sumptuous ledge below an arching thin crack.

  2. 5.10d Pull into the thin crack by tricky, thin moves. Follow the crack up and left to a bolt. Pull over and trip tidily up the receding slab to belay.

To descend, ab the route.

The flake crack round to the left of Cassandra and just right of a grotty corner. Rack up, ditch the tinies and go heavy on the bigs.

Follow the slightly slanting handcrack all the way to a tree on the left. Holds on the left keep the climbing pleasant rather than thrutchy.

Ab off.

The crack to the right is a crumbly 5.10a with an appalling anchor.

A good steep line but the rock's less than perfect. There seems to be a lower-off on the lip - or is it just a back-up for a crap bolt? Perish the thought.

Start in the cave round to the left of Kappa. Follow the bolted line through the roof till the angle comes to its senses. Continue more easily to a lower-off. Check you've got enough rope to get down.

A superb pitch. Take a Friend 2 for the start.

Start just left of where the overhang gets serious, below and left of a groove. Climb any way you like to the first bolt. Go up, then right into a scoop, then make a steep and reachy pull (crux) to where the angle relents. Climb a short crack then move up and right to a lower-off.

It is possible to ab direct to the ground with a 50m rope. It is possible to lower off direct to the ground with a 60m rope. Either way, it's best if someone follows to get the gear.

To the left, the rock sticks out slightly, but at an easier angle. This has been christened Magga Slab, and the name appears to be sticking.

The crusty right edge of the slab, where it's almost a face in parts. Take the route name into account! Slabby moves on crumbly jugs lead up to and over a bulge to a lower-off. That crunching sound is your footholds disintegrating. (Debolted in the public interest in summer, 2000 - though the lower-off and top bolt remain.)

A poor route with no obvious line.

Tricky starting moves up a short, slabby rib behind a suffering tree lead to easier climbing, then one steepish move to a lower-off.

The obvious line of weaknesses left again is a touch more fun.

After a stiff starting pull, saunter up the slab on good holds to below a slanting bulge. Pull right over this then go left and up to a lower-off.

Very good! Start at a dike where the slab takes a step up.

Climb the dike and slab easily to the first bolt. Move left using a thin break, stand up in it and go right to a left-leaning corner. Stretch right out of this to a good finger edge and use this to gain a jug further right. Cut loose, heave up and then climb easily to a terrace and single bolt in someone's shrubbery. Belay on the best tree you can find or step right to the lower-off of Ultra Seven. A 5.11a variation takes you direct from bolt one to bolt two.

A neat and varied pitch, but a little lacking.

Start just left of Kawaii Onna. Climb straight up the slab on spaced bolts to below the crumbly right edge of an overhang. Make a weird move to get established on the lip, then a full-body smear up the runnel above to easy ground and a choice between a lower-off on the left and a tree over the back.

An easy slab leads to a steep, hard finish.

Climb the slab just left of Owen no Tame ni Inori wo till it ends at a short steep tower. A couple of exciting moves up this lead to a lower-off below the central terrace (or you could pull over to the right and do Playback).

The section of slab to the left is short and finishes at an obvious terrace.

A short slab with little going on.

Follow the line of RCC bolts (well, there are 2, and most people climb about a metre right of them, which is where the holds are) to the right edge of the terrace. Lower off a disturbingly slender tree or look for something more substantial to the left.

Short, but very tiring on the fingers.

Start a couple of metres up and left of Hourouheki. Climb to the second bolt by fingery pulls and dodgy smears. Easier moves lead to the terrace. It's standard cowardice practice to pre-clip the first bolt from the jug 3m up Song of Pine.

The one-bolt wonder in the centre of the slab.

Follow the obvious line to the terrace - there are good holds where it matters.

The next line along - the holds stand out.

Make hard moves to get established on the slab, then climb directly and more easily to the terrace. Holds on Song of Pine are out of bounds.

An excellent 4-pitch route. Also well worth it if you do Koinuma-Yonekura Crack as pitch 4. Take a variety of Friends for the double cracks on the first pitch.

  1. 5.10c Start where the slab starts to blend left and up into the hillside. Climb the slab to an arete. Hard moves up this lead to a sloping ledge on the right. Swing left to the base of twin cracks and climb these to belay at a tree.

  2. 5.10a Step left, surmount a small overhang, then climb the slab above to a good ledge and belay.

  3. 5.9 Climb the very short slab behind the belay to a big ledge below the final tower.

  4. 5.11b Climb the centre of the face on the left to finish on the top of this particular part of the world.

A superb pitch! If you ever see this from below, you'll want to do it.

Descend by abseiling 50m down the back left face to where the gully becomes walkable then stumble back down to the start of the route. You can split the ab at one of the route's belays if necessary.


Check out what is happening in Gamma Upper.