Section navigation


Tasty slabbing with a spicy crux. Climb the flake as for Gamma Route pitch 2. From the dike climb direct by thin moves to a sloping mantel (using the white line of holds on the left makes it 10a; the pegs up and left take you off-route). From here, it is best to step right and finish up Braveheart (the line of bolts - this is 26m and you can just get down on a 50m rope), but it is also possible to continue right to the chains on Gamma Route at the top of pitch 2 or to keep going boldly but pleasantly in a direct line up the slab, veering left to the lower-off on KC's Banana Cake or right to that of Braveheart.

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work ( but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.


Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Karesawa approx:
Lat/Long: 35.901077,138.627643

Some content has been provided under license from: © Neil Harrison (Copyright

Route Grade Citations

5.10b Community registered grade
5.10b *Alex Rogers

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Heart & Soul (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.