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The central groove.

Climb the groove with a detour round the huge dead tree. Finish at the lower-off of Phoenix, or continue to the lower-off of New 3 or climb the continuation corner (New 5).

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work ( but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.


Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Karesawa approx:
Lat/Long: 35.901077,138.627643

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Route Grade Citations

5.7 Community registered grade
5.7 *Alex Rogers

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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Check out what is happening on New Phoenix 2 (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.