★★ Cassandra 5.10d

A much underrated route. Perhaps people are put off by the appearance of the first pitch. Don't be - the second is a beaut. Take a rack.

1. 5.9 Climb a series of broken cracks and grooves up the centre of the first substantial face to belay on a sumptuous ledge below an arching thin crack.

2. 5.10d Pull into the thin crack by tricky, thin moves. Follow the crack up and left to a bolt. Pull over and trip tidily up the receding slab to belay.

To descend, ab the route.

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0