- Height: 35m
A superb pitch. Take a Friend 2 for the start.
Start just left of where the overhang gets serious, below and left of a groove. Climb any way you like to the first bolt. Go up, then right into a scoop, then make a steep and reachy pull (crux) to where the angle relents. Climb a short crack then move up and right to a lower-off.
It is possible to ab direct to the ground with a 50m rope. It is possible to lower off direct to the ground with a 60m rope. Either way, it's best if someone follows to get the gear.
- Ethic: inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.
The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.
- There is no known route history.
Located in Karesawa approx:
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