- Height: 25m
- Bolts: 2
- Pitches: 2
- Ascents: 1
- Aka: 岩燕三十郎
hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.
- Ethic: inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.
The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.
- There is no known route history.
Located in Mizugaki Yama approx:
Route Grade Citations
|5.11d||Community registered grade|
Overall quality score: 67%
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