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One of Japans iconic Multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st,4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery aerate move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7 however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+~5.10.

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work ( but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Toichimen Iwa approx:
Lat/Long: 35.895929,138.587049

Route Grade Citations

***James Frith

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 83%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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