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One of Japans iconic Multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st,4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery aerate move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7 however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+~5.10.

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association ( is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.


Route History:

There is no known route history.


Located in Toichimen Iwa approx:
Lat/Long: 35.895929,138.587049

Route Grade Citations

James Frith

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 83%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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