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Description:

The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus.

Ethic: inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.

The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: James Frith, 2013

Location:  

Located in Kasameri Sawa approx:
Long/Lat: 138.582927,35.907058

Route Grade Citations

5.12a Community registered grade
5.12a

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux

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Check out what is happening on Dance of the devil (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.