Tenno Iwa Mostly Sport climbing46 routes in crag
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Overhanging Sport Climbing Crag with two sectors, and a few boulder problems.
Parking at nearby trout fishing is limited to opening hours and is 1000 yen for the day. Make sure you ask first before you park. Else enter the road on the left about 100m before you get to the trout fishing place main building and go up that steep road to find some free parking. It is very limited! Another parking is 1.5km away and is free else use public bus.
End of the upper parking of the trout fishing place walk on towards the bridge, on he right just before you go onto the bridge enter a small trail right in and up the forest to the upper sector (access to lower sector with some bouldering on the way is from there, first flat area where you look towards the bridge see the big rock in the forest just below you, follow the trail that way downwards).
Ethic inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
Many of the routes are well protected, while other less climbed "sport" routes have loose pitons as protection.
The Japan Free Climbing Association does a lot of good work (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) but with some clubs and communities, many techniques and ethics are still passed down from old generations with outdated gear and techniques.
Check out what is happening in Tenno Iwa.