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Summary

Steep slabby climbing, a nice place for winter with awesome views of the sea. Mostly sport climbing on rather short routes and some scattered boulders amongst fruit trees.

Description

Steep slabby climbing on andesite, wonderful views, easy access - one of the few worthwhile places for a day-trip from Tokyo, although plenty to do if you want to stay in the area for a weekend. Nearly all sport climbing, with decent modern bolts on the popular climbs

Access issues

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Approach

From Tokyo: Catch Tokaido line from Tokyo/Kawasaki/Yokohama to Yugawara (last stop before Atami). Then get into a cab and ask the driver to take you to Makuiwa-koen. 10 min walk up from where the taxi driver drops you.

Where to stay

Plenty of places including Onsen in Yugawara. A nice small bakery is next to the parking just below the cliffs.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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