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Description

The biggest sector of Maku-iwa with lots of climbs and few boulder problems just below it.

Access issues inherited from Maku Iwa

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Approach

You can walk up from the parking using the obvious path and keep left or follow the road a bit into the valley for a few hundred meters and take a small trail to your right. The cliff can be seen from the road.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

グリーンウィンド

サマーアイズ

モノリス

No.2ルート

Next crack to the left of Emily. Short overhang followed by a nice less-than-vertical hands/thin hands crack. Traverse left and deal with the tree or go straight up past the block. There is a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings above the tree. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guidebook, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo)

エミリー Crack is full of plants and dirt, I don't think it gets much (any) traffic

Thin crack with a short wide section in the middle. Traverse left at the horizontal about a meter below the piton, then follow the corner up past the block and end at a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings up and to the right. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guide book, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo)

フェイス88

This route no longer has bolts

Far right on the same ledge as No. 3 route, Emily, etc. Short, right-leaning fists to hands crack. Bolt/chain anchor with rap ring on the face once you top out the crack.

ラナ

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