A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
James Frith Némo Aaron J Brendan Heywood siva-blaize faalavaau Per Christer Lund Masaki Takizawa Mat Horne Emi Watanabe Katharina Ninive
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Shōmenheki / 正面壁 27 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Shōmenheki 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 35.169229, 139.088254
description
The biggest sector of Maku-iwa with lots of climbs and few boulder problems just below it.
access issues
As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.
approach
You can walk up from the parking using the obvious path and keep left or follow the road a bit into the valley for a few hundred meters and take a small trail to your right. The cliff can be seen from the road.
ethic
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Green Wind
グリーンウィンド | 5.10a | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ No.1 Route | 5.10a | 35m | |||||
3 | ★★ No.1 Route Direct Finish | 5.10c | 35m | |||||
4 |
★★ Summer Eyes
サマーアイズ | 5.10a | ||||||
5 |
Monolith
モノリス | 5.10a | ||||||
6 | ★★ Long Line / ロングライン | 5.10d | 3 | |||||
7 |
No.2 Route
No.2ルート | 5.10c | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★★ Spiderman
One of the most classic and historical routes of Japan. Amazing climbing following a beautiful sloppy edge on a vertical rock. Continuous and sustained climbing from the start to the top out on a nice edge. Really nice exposure. | 5.12a | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★ Mini-overhang right dihedral / 小ハング右凹角
Next crack to the left of Emily. Short overhang followed by a nice less-than-vertical hands/thin hands crack. Traverse left and deal with the tree or go straight up past the block. There is a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings above the tree. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guidebook, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo) | 5.10a | ||||||
10 |
Emily
エミリー Crack is full of plants and dirt, I don't think it gets much (any) traffic | 5.9 | ||||||
11 |
★★ No.3 Route / No3.ルート
Thin crack with a short wide section in the middle. Traverse left at the horizontal about a meter below the piton, then follow the corner up past the block and end at a bolt/chain anchor with rap rings up and to the right. (5.9 in the Hyakuiwaba guide book, 5.10a in the latest Rock & Snow topo) | 5.9 | ||||||
12 |
★ Face 88
フェイス88 This route no longer has bolts | 5.12a | ||||||
13 | ★★ Asia / アジア | 5.10c | 15m | |||||
14 |
★ Baby pinnacle / ベビーピナクル
Far right on the same ledge as No. 3 route, Emily, etc. Short, right-leaning fists to hands crack. Bolt/chain anchor with rap ring on the face once you top out the crack. | 5.9 | ||||||
15 | ★ Nigeru Robber / 逃げるロバ | 5.9 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 | Paper Doll / ペーパードール | 5.10a | ||||||
17 | ★★ Pony Tail / ポニーテール | 5.9 | 9 | |||||
18 | ★★ No.7 Route / No.7ルート | 5.10b | 20m | |||||
19 |
Rana
ラナ | 5.10b | ||||||
20 | ★ Jimushii / ジムシ一 | 5.10c | 10m | |||||
21 | ★★ Kazue-chan and Toshio-chan / かずえちゃん・としおちゃん | 5.10d | 10m | |||||
22 | ★★ Spaghetti Yo-chan / スパゲッティーよっちゃん | 5.12a | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Spider-Girl / スパイダーキッド | 5.12a/b | 10m | |||||
24 | ★★ Reflection / リフレクション | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
25 | ★ Tomodachi Price / ともだちプライス | 5.10a | 4 | |||||
26 |
?
Shares first 3 bolts with ともだちプライス | 5.9 | 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★★ Kamakura / カマクラ
Arete | 5.10c/d | 8m, 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.9 | ? | 4 | |||
★ | Baby pinnacle | ||||
Emily | |||||
★ | Nigeru Robber | ||||
★★ | No.3 Route | ||||
★★ | Pony Tail | 9 | |||
5.10a | Green Wind | ||||
★★ | Mini-overhang right dihedral | ||||
Monolith | |||||
★★ | No.1 Route | 35m | |||
Paper Doll | |||||
★★ | Summer Eyes | ||||
★ | Tomodachi Price | 4 | |||
5.10b | ★★ | No.7 Route | 20m | ||
Rana | |||||
5.10c | ★★ | Asia | 15m | ||
★ | Jimushii | 10m | |||
★★ | No.1 Route Direct Finish | 35m | |||
No.2 Route | |||||
5.10c/d | ★★ | Kamakura | 8m, 4 | ||
5.10d | ★★ | Kazue-chan and Toshio-chan | 10m | ||
★★ | Long Line | 3 | |||
★★ | Reflection | 15m | |||
5.12a | ★ | Face 88 | |||
★★ | Spaghetti Yo-chan | ||||
★★★ | Spiderman | 25m | |||
5.12a/b | ★★★ | Spider-Girl | 10m |