A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Maku Iwa 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 139.088462, 35.170168

Description:

Steep slabby climbing on andesite, wonderful views, easy access - one of the few worthwhile places for a day-trip from Tokyo, although plenty to do if you want to stay in the area for a weekend. Nearly all sport climbing, with decent modern bolts on the popular climbs

Access Issues:

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Approach:

From Tokyo: Catch Tokaido line from Tokyo/Kawasaki/Yokohama to Yugawara (last stop before Atami). Then get into a cab and ask the driver to take you to Makuiwa-koen. 10 min walk up from where the taxi driver drops you.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 #25 5.10dUnknown
2 * Freight 5.7Unknown
3 #49 5.7Unknown
4 *** #50 5.9Unknown
5 Rat poison 5.9Unknown
6 #13 .. chin route 5.8Unknown
7 ** Samaaizu 5.10aUnknown
8 ** Asia 5.10cUnknown
9 Bandit 5.10dUnknown
10 Conan 5.9Unknown
11 Benirein 5.11aUnknown
12 In my life 5.9Unknown
13 Hannibal 5.8Unknown
14 I feel fine 5.9Unknown
15 ** Ain't .... belong 5.9Unknown

1.1. New Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.1.1. New Area Temae 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hastler / ハスラー 5.10aSport 6
2 * Circus Boy / サーカスボーイ 5.10aSport
3 First Child Sports / ファーストチャイルドスポーツ 5.8Sport
4 * Mazui Shougayaki / Bad Ginger / まずい生姜焼 5.10aSport
5 Sion / シオン 5.9Sport

1.1.2. Inoki Iwa 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Axe Bomber / アックスボンバー 5.10bSport
2 Kobura Twist / Abdominal stretch / コブラツイスト 5.11dSport

1.2. Shōmen Kabe 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Green Wind

グリーンウィンド

5.10aSport
2 ** No.1 Route 5.10aSport
3 *** No.1 Route Direct Finish 5.10cSport
4 ** Summer Eyes

サマーアイズ

5.10aSport
5 Monolith

モノリス

5.10aSport
6 ** Long Line / ロングライン 5.10dSport
7 No.2 Route

No.2ルート

5.10cSport
8 *** Spiderman 5.12aSport
9 Emily

エミリー

5.9Sport
10 No.3 Route / No3.ルート 5.9Sport
11 * Face 88

フェイス88

5.12aSport
12 Nigeru Robber / 逃げるロバ 5.9Sport
13 Paper Doll / ペーパードール 5.10aSport
14 ** Pony Tail / ポニーテール 5.9Sport
15 *** No.7 Route / No.7ルート 5.10bSport
16 Rana

ラナ

5.10bSport

1.3. Chigasaki Rock 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This is the main climbing area on the right hand side of the parking lot. The lower buttress is Wonderland, the upper section is Ali Baba area

Approach:

10 min walk up through the plum orchards on braided tracks.

1.3.1. Kibou Mine 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Shaku Shine / シャックシャイン 5.10dSport
2 ** Moujiki Vacance / もうじきバカンス 5.11cSport

1.3.2. Tougenkyou 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Diamond Hip / ダイヤモンドヒッピ

2 star sport route - overhanging, thin route, normally with in-place dogger hanging off the crux bolt. Just to the left of the main arete up overhanging wall.

5.11aSport 9m
2 * Abracadabra / アブラカタブラ

Short, bouldery climb. Walk up right of the Wonderland area, past one rock with a couple of routes on it, and this is on a seperate rock with two routes, one on each face. Abracadabra goes up the middle of the face, Zelda is on the right of the arete on the overhanging face.

5.10aSport 6m, 2
3 ** Zelda / ゼルダ

Just to the right of Abracadabra, on the right of the arete on the overhanging side. Boulder problem climb with tricky crux down low. Not sure why the guidebook gives it 2 stars.

5.11aSport 7m, 3
4 * Sunset / サンセット

Straight up the arete right of Diamond Hip. Crux is a long reach up near the top. Reaching around to the crack on the right reduces difficulty to 5.8 or so - go straight up!

5.10aSport 9m, 3
5 * Silk Road / シルクロード

First climb you come to on the walk up. Great beginner route. Straight up the slabby face to the chains

5.7Sport 10m, 4
6 Washing

Start 2m right of Silk Road. Up the crack to the right of Silk Road. One of the only trad climbs at Makuiwa, and a good climb for beginner leaders. Easy to bail from or move over and clip bolts on Silk Road if needed.

5.7Sport 10m
7 * Inchiki Suruna / いんちきするな

The name of the climb translates to "Don't Cheat".

Climb start a few metres right of Washing.

Another good easy lead, fun slab/face climbing, a bit thought provoking in places. Good intro to andesite.

5.8Sport 9m, 5
8 Aborigine / アボリジニ 5.10aSport 2
9 ** Diamond Head / ダイヤモンドヘッド 5.11cSport 4
10 Yougure Toki / 夕暮れ時 5.10bSport 3
11 Ari-San Route / 蟻さんルート 5.8Sport 3
12 ** Akogare Hawaii Kouro / 憧れのハワイ航路

Very balancy and technical climb up the aeret

5.11aSport
13 Youhandoki / 夕飯時 5.10bSport
14 Yuguredoki 5.10bSport

1.3.3. Makoron Land 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

The upper tier above Wonderland and left of the Ali Baba area (ie tothe left of the big tree splitting the clifftop, and left around the corner).

Approach:

Scramble around the left and up from Wonderland, using fixed ropes and short fixed ladder. This brings you out to the upper tier at New Arai & Shower Colon

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Christmas Rose

Furthest left around ledge. Start near anchor bolt on ledge for belayer, and up the middle of the short face following bolt line. Difficult for the grade, it is thin, technical and sustained.

5.10bSport 8m, 3
2 * Mazo Okesa

The left-hand arete of the upper ledge. Start on the arete and move onto the face and up to top. Thin and edgy, two-star route in guidebook. Descent Options:

5.10bSport 8m, 3
3 New Arai

Another thin edgy face climb, just right of Mazo Okesa. Given grade of 5.10a/b in guidebook.

5.10aSport 8m
4 * Shower Colon

Interesting route. Awkward start at the base of the crack directly under the tree, up and right back into the crack. Quite scary finish if you don't use the tree... I may well have mistranslated the name :)

5.10aSport 8m

1.4. Ali Baba area 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The upper tier above Wonderland. Ali Baba area is the area to the right of the big tree splitting the clifftop

Approach:

Scramble around to the right or left with the help of fixed ropes.

Descent Notes:

As for ascent.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ali Baba

The crag classic. Thin and fingery crux, well protected, 3 bolts plus lower-offs

5.10bSport 10m, 3
2 ** Anne

To the right of Ali baba. A nice clean sport route, typical of the area - fingery with small footholds, well protected, delicate. Listed as 5.10a/b and that's probably about right.

5.10aSport 10m, 4

1.5. Cinderella face 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Cliff up and to the right of Ali Baba

Approach:

Walk right from Ali Baba along narrow dirt ledge (fixed rope handrail) to the next clean slab

Descent Notes:

Back to Ali Baba and down

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Cinderella

The obvious line up the middle of the face. Great route, 2 stars in guidebook, well protected, a good beginner lead.

5.7Sport 17m
2 * Pumpkin Coach

Up the arete right of Cinderella, and keeping right of that climb to the top

5.6Sport 15m
3 Tom Sawyer

Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.

5.8Sport 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5.6 * Pumpkin Coach Sport 15m 1.5. Cinderella face
5.7 #49 Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
* Freight Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
* Silk Road Sport 10m, 4 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
Washing Sport 10m 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
** Cinderella Sport 17m 1.5. Cinderella face
5.8 #13 .. chin route Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
Hannibal Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
First Child Sports Sport 1.1.1. New Area Temae
Ari-San Route Sport 3 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
* Inchiki Suruna Sport 9m, 5 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
Tom Sawyer Sport 20m 1.5. Cinderella face
5.9 *** #50 Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
** Ain't .... belong Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
Conan Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
I feel fine Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
In my life Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
Rat poison Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
Sion Sport 1.1.1. New Area Temae
Emily Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Nigeru Robber Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
No.3 Route Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
** Pony Tail Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
5.10a ** Samaaizu Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
* Circus Boy Sport 1.1.1. New Area Temae
Hastler Sport 6 1.1.1. New Area Temae
* Mazui Shougayaki Sport 1.1.1. New Area Temae
Green Wind Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Monolith Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
** No.1 Route Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Paper Doll Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
** Summer Eyes Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Aborigine Sport 2 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
* Abracadabra Sport 6m, 2 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
* Sunset Sport 9m, 3 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
New Arai Sport 8m 1.3.3. Makoron Land
* Shower Colon Sport 8m 1.3.3. Makoron Land
** Anne Sport 10m, 4 1.4. Ali Baba area
5.10b ** Axe Bomber Sport 1.1.2. Inoki Iwa
*** No.7 Route Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Rana Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
Yougure Toki Sport 3 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
Youhandoki Sport 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
Yuguredoki Sport 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
Christmas Rose Sport 8m, 3 1.3.3. Makoron Land
* Mazo Okesa Sport 8m, 3 1.3.3. Makoron Land
** Ali Baba Sport 10m, 3 1.4. Ali Baba area
5.10c ** Asia Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
*** No.1 Route Direct Finish Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
No.2 Route Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
5.10d #25 Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
Bandit Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
** Long Line Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
*** Shaku Shine Sport 1.3.1. Kibou Mine
5.11a Benirein Unknown 1. Maku Iwa
** Akogare Hawaii Kouro Sport 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
** Diamond Hip Sport 9m 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
** Zelda Sport 7m, 3 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
5.11c ** Moujiki Vacance Sport 1.3.1. Kibou Mine
** Diamond Head Sport 4 1.3.2. Tougenkyou
5.11d Kobura Twist Sport 1.1.2. Inoki Iwa
5.12a * Face 88 Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe
*** Spiderman Sport 1.2. Shōmen Kabe