Routes as sport in Maku Iwa

グリーンウィンド

サマーアイズ

モノリス

No.2ルート

One of the most classic and historical routes of Japan. Amazing climbing following a beautiful sloppy edge on a vertical rock. Continuous and sustained climbing from the start to the top out on a nice edge. Really nice exposure.

フェイス88

This route no longer has bolts

Shares first 3 bolts with ともだちプライス

Arete

Considered one of the local classics. A fall from the crux after the third bolt can be nasty and wearing a helmet is strongly recommended as a person died on it in 2012 after falling upside down and hitting their head on the rock. I saw the same happen to another person but they were fortunate enough to walk away from it.

Alternating laybacks make for an interesting ascent

Very balancy and technical climb up the aeret

2 star sport route - overhanging, thin route, normally with in-place dogger hanging off the crux bolt. Just to the left of the main arete up overhanging wall.

Straight up the arete right of Diamond Hip. Crux is a long reach up near the top. Reaching around to the crack on the right reduces difficulty to 5.8 or so - go straight up!

First climb you come to on the walk up. Great beginner route. Straight up the slabby face to the chains

The name of the climb translates to "Don't Cheat".

Climb start a few metres right of Washing.

Another good easy lead, fun slab/face climbing, a bit thought provoking in places. Good intro to andesite.

On the left of とけいワニ with shared tree anchor with rope and carabiners already in place.

A delicate slab climb leading into an undercling used to pass the small overhang by the left side

Short, bouldery climb. Walk up right of the Wonderland area, past one rock with a couple of routes on it, and this is on a seperate rock with two routes, one on each face. Abracadabra goes up the middle of the face, Zelda is on the right of the arete on the overhanging face.

Just to the right of Abracadabra, on the right of the arete on the overhanging side. Boulder problem climb with tricky crux down low. Not sure why the guidebook gives it 2 stars.

Furthest left around ledge. Start near anchor bolt on ledge for belayer, and up the middle of the short face following bolt line. Difficult for the grade, it is thin, technical and sustained.

The left-hand arete of the upper ledge. Start on the arete and move onto the face and up to top. Thin and edgy, two-star route in guidebook. Descent Options:

Another thin edgy face climb, just right of Mazo Okesa. Given grade of 5.10a/b in guidebook.

Interesting route. Awkward start at the base of the crack directly under the tree, up and right back into the crack. Quite scary finish if you don't use the tree... I may well have mistranslated the name

The crag classic. Thin and fingery crux, well protected, 3 bolts plus lower-offs

To the right of Ali baba. A nice clean sport route, typical of the area - fingery with small footholds, well protected, delicate. Listed as 5.10a/b and that's probably about right.

The obvious line up the middle of the face. Great route, 2 stars in guidebook, well protected, a good beginner lead.

Up the arete right of Cinderella, and keeping right of that climb to the top

Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping.

Interesting corner climb with hard top out

Nice juggy route