Crag Guide for Yugawara Makuiwa (湯河原 幕岩）
A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Alex Rogers
James Frith
Campbell Gome
Yuji Katayama
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Yugawara Makuiwa (湯河原 幕岩）
36 in Crag
-
1.1.
Chigasaki Rock 16 in Sector
- 1.1.1. Tougenkyou 12 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Makoron Land 4 in Cliff
- 1.2. Ali Baba area 2 in Cliff
- 1.3. Cinderella face 3 in Cliff
-
1.1.
Chigasaki Rock 16 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Yugawara Makuiwa (湯河原 幕岩） 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport,?
Long/Lat: 139.088462, 35.170168
- Description:
-
Steep slabby climbing on andesite, wonderful views, easy access - one of the few worthwhile places for a day-trip from Tokyo, although plenty to do if you want to stay in the area for a weekend. Nearly all sport climbing, with decent modern bolts on the popular climbs
- Access Issues:
-
As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.
- Approach:
-
From Tokyo: Catch Tokaido line from Tokyo/Kawasaki/Yokohama to Yugawara (last stop before Atami). Then get into a cab and ask the driver to take you to Makuiwa-koen. 10 min walk up from where the taxi driver drops you.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | #25 | 5.10d | ||||
| 2 |
 Freight
| 5.7 | ||||
| 3 | #49 | 5.7 | ||||
| 4 |
#50
| 5.9 | ||||
| 5 | Rat poison | 5.9 | ||||
| 6 | #13 .. chin route | 5.8 | ||||
| 7 |
Samaaizu
| 5.10a | ||||
| 8 |
Asia
| 5.10c | ||||
| 9 | Bandit | 5.10d | ||||
| 10 | Conan | 5.9 | ||||
| 11 | Benirein | 5.11a | ||||
| 12 | In my life | 5.9 | ||||
| 13 | Hannibal | 5.8 | ||||
| 14 | I feel fine | 5.9 | ||||
| 15 |
Ain't .... belong
| 5.9 | ||||
1.1. Chigasaki Rock 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
- All Sport
- Description:
-
This is the main climbing area on the right hand side of the parking lot. The lower buttress is Wonderland, the upper section is Ali Baba area
- Approach:
-
10 min walk up through the plum orchards on braided tracks.
1.1.1. Tougenkyou 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Diamond Hip / ダイヤモンドヒッピ
2 star sport route - overhanging, thin route, normally with in-place dogger hanging off the crux bolt. Just to the left of the main arete up overhanging wall. | 5.11a | 9m | |||
| 2 |
Abracadabra / アブラカタブラ
Short, bouldery climb. Walk up right of the Wonderland area, past one rock with a couple of routes on it, and this is on a seperate rock with two routes, one on each face. Abracadabra goes up the middle of the face, Zelda is on the right of the arete on the overhanging face. | 5.10a | 6m , 2 | |||
| 3 |
Zelda / ゼルダ
Just to the right of Abracadabra, on the right of the arete on the overhanging side. Boulder problem climb with tricky crux down low. Not sure why the guidebook gives it 2 stars. | 5.11a | 7m , 3 | |||
| 4 |
Sunset / サンセット
Straight up the arete right of Diamond Hip. Crux is a long reach up near the top. Reaching around to the crack on the right reduces difficulty to 5.8 or so - go straight up! | 5.10a | 9m , 3 | |||
| 5 |
Silk Road / シルクロード
First climb you come to on the walk up. Great beginner route. Straight up the slabby face to the chains | 5.7 | 10m , 4 | |||
| 6 |
Washing
Start 2m right of Silk Road. Up the crack to the right of Silk Road. One of the only trad climbs at Makuiwa, and a good climb for beginner leaders. Easy to bail from or move over and clip bolts on Silk Road if needed. | 5.7 | 10m | |||
| 7 |
Inchiki Suruna / いんちきするな
The name of the climb translates to "Don't Cheat". Climb start a few metres right of Washing. Another good easy lead, fun slab/face climbing, a bit thought provoking in places. Good intro to andesite. | 5.8 | 9m , 5 | |||
| 8 | Aborigine / アボリジニ | 5.10a | 2 | |||
| 9 |
Diamond Head / ダイヤモンドヘッド
| 5.11c | 4 | |||
| 10 | Yougure Toki / 夕暮れ時 | 5.10b | 3 | |||
| 11 | Ari-San Route / 蟻さんルート | 5.8 | 3 | |||
| 12 |
Akogare Hawaii Kouro / 憧れのハワイ航路
Very balancy and technical climb up the aeret | 5.11a | ||||
1.1.2. Makoron Land 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
- Description:
-
The upper tier above Wonderland and left of the Ali Baba area (ie tothe left of the big tree splitting the clifftop, and left around the corner).
- Approach:
-
Scramble around the left and up from Wonderland, using fixed ropes and short fixed ladder. This brings you out to the upper tier at New Arai & Shower Colon
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Christmas Rose
Furthest left around ledge. Start near anchor bolt on ledge for belayer, and up the middle of the short face following bolt line. Difficult for the grade, it is thin, technical and sustained. | 5.10b | 8m , 3 | |||
| 2 |
Mazo Okesa
The left-hand arete of the upper ledge. Start on the arete and move onto the face and up to top. Thin and edgy, two-star route in guidebook. Descent Options: | 5.10b | 8m , 3 | |||
| 3 |
New Arai
Another thin edgy face climb, just right of Mazo Okesa. Given grade of 5.10a/b in guidebook. | 5.10a | 8m | |||
| 4 |
Shower Colon
Interesting route. Awkward start at the base of the crack directly under the tree, up and right back into the crack. Quite scary finish if you don't use the tree... I may well have mistranslated the name :) | 5.10a | 8m | |||
1.2. Ali Baba area 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
- All Sport
- Description:
-
The upper tier above Wonderland. Ali Baba area is the area to the right of the big tree splitting the clifftop
- Approach:
-
Scramble around to the right or left with the help of fixed ropes.
- Descent Notes:
-
As for ascent.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ali Baba
The crag classic. Thin and fingery crux, well protected, 3 bolts plus lower-offs | 5.10b | 10m , 3 | |||
| 2 |
Anne
To the right of Ali baba. A nice clean sport route, typical of the area - fingery with small footholds, well protected, delicate. Listed as 5.10a/b and that's probably about right. | 5.10a | 10m , 4 | |||
1.3. Cinderella face 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
- All Sport
- Description:
-
Cliff up and to the right of Ali Baba
- Approach:
-
Walk right from Ali Baba along narrow dirt ledge (fixed rope handrail) to the next clean slab
- Descent Notes:
-
Back to Ali Baba and down
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Cinderella
The obvious line up the middle of the face. Great route, 2 stars in guidebook, well protected, a good beginner lead. | 5.7 | 17m | |||
| 2 |
Pumpkin Coach
Up the arete right of Cinderella, and keeping right of that climb to the top | 5.6 | 15m | |||
| 3 |
Tom Sawyer
Up the gully / groove to the right of Pumpkin Coach. A nice climb spoiled by very old and mostly psychological pro - badly needs re-equipping. | 5.8 | 20m | |||
