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Berdorf Mostly Sport climbing

157 routes in crag
  • Grades: FR
  • Approach time: 15 minutes
  • Ascents: 233

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Summary

Excellent sandstone crag in Luxembourg, close to the German border.

Description

The "Wanterbaach" crag in Berdorf, Luxembourg offers excellent climbing on sandstone. There are about 150 routes in total with the majority of popular routes being 20 to 30 meters long and graded 5c to 7b.

Most of the routes are well protected with glue-in bolts. For 99% of the routes 60 m of rope and 15 QDs will work.

The classic climbs start at 5c and the grading is not soft. Climbers comfortable in the 6c to 7a range, will find the most 3 star routes to choose from. With 20 routes in the 7c to 8c range, Berdorf is attractive to pros too.

As a guideline for climbers who are just starting out: You'll probably have the most fun if you're able to lead 6a to 6b indoors. The routes graded easier than 5b are oftentimes intimidating, very short, or not enjoyable because of ropedrag.

The guidebook "Climbing in Berdorf, 2nd Edition" is available at the campsite "Martbusch", other places in town and online.

Access issues

To be allowed to climb here, you need to be member of a climbing federation which is part of the UIAA or IFSC. Such as the FLERA, DAV, [...]. The old permit system has been replaced in April 2016.

Approach

Starting at the "Martbusch" camping site, walk towards the end of the road. Keep and turn right at the end of the road. Now in the forrest, continue walking for some minutes until you see decending stairs to your left. These lead into the crag.

Where to stay

Campsites in Berdorf or 'Auberge de jeunesse' in Beaufort and Echternach.

Ethic

As there are no clippable carabiners on the chains, best practice for most of the routes is to lower from own material and to abseil when cleaning.

Chalking is tolerated but, because of the grippy nature of the sandstone, often times unnecessary. So try to keep chalking to a minimum and clean your chalk marks - also because a lot of chalk and moisture make holds slippery.

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