Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Malaysia 397 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 109.948314, 4.678005

Description:

One of the country from the South East Asia.

1.1. Kuala Lumpur 7 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 101.697939, 3.145330

1.1.1. Gua Kelam 0 routes in Crag

1.1.2. Gua Cheroh 0 routes in Crag

1.1.3. Gunung Keriang 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.2. Selangor 267 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 101.462708, 3.283593

1.2.1. Batu Caves 168 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 101.687447, 3.242066

1.2.2. Bukit Takun 99 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 101.633974, 3.303028

Unique Features And Strengths:

Phenominal rock outcrop, stretching 300m tall. Massive potential for new routes: sport and trad. Hands down, some of the best multi-pitch climbing in Malaysia.

Description:

Bukit Takun is an enormous limestone outcrop on the outskirts on Kuala Lumpur. One of the best and most comprehensive resources on climbing routes Bukit Takun can be found here: http://www.climb.my/routes/selangor-kl/bukit-takun/

The limestone sits on a bed on granite making lower routes incredibly varied, as you are forced to transition from technical slab faces to featured limestone. The long multi-pitch routes also deserve a mention, several up to 230m in height.

The area has a long history of climbing, with many trad and sports routes put up over the last 30 years. Bolting activity is ongoing: recently there has been a slew of new routes with Patrick Andrey leading the charge, capitalising on the areas huge potential.

The surrounding area is dense jungle forest and this makes the crag feel quiet and remote. However, be prepared for tropical jungle conditions, take plenty of water and be warned the mosquitoes are ravenous.

Access Issues:

The Bukit Takun outcrop access is through a private housing estate. Although residents tolerate access to the crag for climbers, please do not jeopardise this by leaving the area before sunset.

Sign-in with the guard, at the guardhouse & inform if you intend to be leaving late. If you intend to take on multi-pitch routes ensure you are fully prepared, keep an eye on the time, and stick to turn back times.

Leaving in the dark may cause undue panic to the locals, which can make crag access harder in the future.

Approach:

The ascent starts from the housing estate guardhouse. Once you have signed in, proceed up the private road until in turns into a jungle trail. You will pass through a vegetable patch. For sectors Galactic Cliff, Granite Base, Big Hole and Camp Ground head right on the jungle trail, for a steep hike on soft ground.

For the sectors Lower slopes and below take the jungle trail to the left.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3zBTn5vFCo

Ethic:

Please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).

1.3. Perlis 51 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 100.235632, 6.499404

1.3.1. Bukit Keteri, Perlis 51 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 100.262260, 6.518106

Description:

The crag consists of two adjacent freestanding outcrops of which only the northern hill has been developed, and this only partly on its West and North face. Bolting and logs courtesy effort of CAMP5, Kuala Lumpur.

Approach:

By Car From KL via North-South-Highway; exit at Changlun to Kangar. From Kangar on Road 7 direction Padang Besar. After about 7km turn right at Beseri at a large T-Junction with Traffic Light; direction Mata Ayer. Shortly after crossing the Railway you reach another T-Junction (about 2km from first junction; just after a bridge; there is a large cement factory at the right hand side); here you head left direction Padang Besar. The crag appears at the right hand side after about 300m, standing in a padi field opposite a Mosque. A small dirt road directly leads to the foot of the rock, however, it is recommended to park the car further away or at the main road and walk the remaining 100m by feet.

By Train The trainstation Tasik Melati is just a stone throw away from the crag. If you arrive from Thailand, exit at Padang Besar and hire a taxi to Tasik Melati/Bukit Keteri. However the local train will stop at Tasik Melati itself.

History:

Bukit Keteri was pin-pointed and developed during the Mammut/Camp5 bolting expedition. The Crown Prince of Perlis and his Wife were the first to climb at this crag and hopefully with this gesture initiated a sustainable development of climbing in this part of Malaysia.

1.4. Johor 9 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Aid and Sport

Long/Lat: 103.631174, 2.125200

1.4.1. Tioman Island 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Aid and Sport

Long/Lat: 104.166016, 2.726435

1.4.2. Pulau Mawar 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 103.786769, 2.616231

Unique Features And Strengths:

Poor quality climbing sea cliff climbing area

Description:

Pulau Mawar climbing site was officially bolted by Petit Climbing Center (http://www.facebook.com/groups/349144232230). Launched on the 23rd Oct 2011. Although the bolting group say the rock is granite, it is not, it's a soft metamorphic rock type and very brittle, making climbing in the area very dangerous. Successive monsoons have rusted out most of the bolts and anchors, so using the existing bolting for lead climbing is inadvisable. The beach and rocks also appear to be affected by an oil spill and are coated in globs of sticky tar.

Access Issues:

Access info can be found here https://m.facebook.com/notes/equatorial-adventures/rough-guide-to-rock-climbing-at-pulau-mawar-rose-island-mersing-malaysia/10150363023143922/ basically it's just north of Mersing and you can walk out to the island, follow right until a trailhead marked with tape and then up and over the spine of the island. Walk takes around 30min

1.5. Pahang 0 routes in Region

1.5.1. Jerantut 0 routes in Area

Description:

The Kampung Paya Gunung Pinnacle is a free standing monolith with two distinct peaks. With a multi-pitch climb that will take you straight to the top of the main higher peak.

Approach:

From Jerantut town, take Highway 64 out east all the way past the Termeloh turnoff (where there is a big mosque). Keep going for 4.1KMs past this turnoff and take a right turn into a small slip road next to a concrete bus stop/hut. Take the first right and drive straight along the kampung road for about 10 mins till you reach the end. You should be able to see the pinnacle by now. Make a right when the road splits at the base and park your car around the area. Watch out to not park it too close to the cliff in case of falling loose rocks.

1.6. Penang 17 routes in Region

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 100.295443, 5.372709

1.6.1. Jesselton Park Penang 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 100.294845, 5.422547

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rock type is Granite.

Description:

The one & only bolted outdoor climbing area at Penang Island.Routes number ( 1 to 14 ) starts from left to right side of the main wall. For routes 15 to 17, they are located opposite the main wall.

Access Issues:

This place is located just behind a housing estate. So, keep the noise level low when approaching the site.No restriction of access so far.

Approach:

Best way is to have your own transport to the area.Park your vehicle along the housing estate road & walk in to the site after the water tank on left. Do not walk up the hill slope once you enter the jungle, a slight turn towards your right on flat land & towards left again. Walk straight & you should see the wall at your left.

Ethic:

We just need climbers to keep the area clean, respect the environment & practice safe climbing. A happy & rewarding climbing trip is what we want to achieve at the end of the day. CLIMB ON & HAVE FUN!!

1.7. Sarawak 0 routes in Region

Description:

Malaysia-Borneo (Updating)

1.7.1. Fairy Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Kelantan 46 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 102.002672, 5.287746

1.8.1. Gua Musang 46 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 101.963408, 4.837146

Description:

The Gua Musang crags are located at 'Etnobotani Park' a few kilometres to the South of Gua Musang town. There are 5 crag sections (A-E), with E having the hardest lines (up to 7b)

Approach:

There is no public transport from the town of Gua Musang although taxis can be found that will take you to 'Etnobotani Park'.

Where To Stay:

There is a fairly large campsite just to the North of the crags (within walking distance) as well as hotels in the town of Gua Musang itself.

1.9. Sabah 0 routes in Region

1.9.1. Mt. Kinabalu 0 routes in Crag