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Table of contents

1. Jesselton Park Penang 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 100.294845, 5.422547

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rock type is Granite.

Description:

The one & only bolted outdoor climbing area at Penang Island.Routes number ( 1 to 14 ) starts from left to right side of the main wall. For routes 15 to 17, they are located opposite the main wall.

Access Issues:

This place is located just behind a housing estate. So, keep the noise level low when approaching the site.No restriction of access so far.

Approach:

Best way is to have your own transport to the area.Park your vehicle along the housing estate road & walk in to the site after the water tank on left. Do not walk up the hill slope once you enter the jungle, a slight turn towards your right on flat land & towards left again. Walk straight & you should see the wall at your left.

Ethic:

We just need climbers to keep the area clean, respect the environment & practice safe climbing. A happy & rewarding climbing trip is what we want to achieve at the end of the day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Si Katik Sadis

NH- Si- the, Katik- short, Sadis - Sick.In other words, it is the shortest and hardest route at that time in Jesselton's wall. FA - Akmal Noor, Kuala Lumpur

6cSport 6m, 4
2 Sister Psychosis

NH- Ong Wooi Jin once climbed the route and screamed so hard (on the crux) it sounded like a woman giving birth. It’s almost psychotic. FA – Corey Ho, Penang.

6a+Sport 6m, 4
3 You, Me and Dog named Blue

NH – Every time Corey asked his climbing partner (Wooi Jon) to climb and said who else are going to climb ? W. Jin would reply "You, me and a dog named Blue". In other words, just the two of them. FA – Ong Wooi Jin, Penang

6a+Sport 6m, 4
4 * The Cream of Extreme

NH – unknown FA – Corey Ho, Penang

6bSport 9m, 6
5 From London with Love

NH – The name was dedicated to a climber’s girl friend because the girl was leaving for London and then route was named when the girl climb there for the last time. FA – Corey Ho, Penang

6a+Sport 15m, 6
6 The Tooth

NH – The big rock on the route that looks like one of the pioneer climber’s tooth (Saiful) as he only has one tooth in his entire mouth. FA – Azmir Aziz, Penang

6a+Sport 16m, 6
7 Dead Monkey

NH – When the route was first ascended, there was a skeleton of a dead monkey on top of the anchor. FA – Reza Rahim, Penang.

6aSport 16m, 7
8 Whistle Blower ( New )

Part of new routes bolted at 2012. After Dead Monkey to the right. Bolted by Bernard Spack (Swiss) in 2012.

6c+Sport 17m, 7
9 "Soon" Wu Kong / Monkey God ( New)

This route was named based on a 16th century novel in china- Journey to the West, a main charater called Sun Wukong, also known as the Monkey King. In the novel, he is a monkey born from a stone who acquires supernatural powers through Taoist practices. After rebelling against heaven and being imprisoned under a mountain by the Buddha, he later accompanies the monk Xuanzang on a journey to retrieve Buddhist sutras from India. And the name "Sun" was changed to "Soon" as suggested by a pioneer Penang climber to appreciate Soon’s efforts who have contributed, setup and bolted the additional new routes in Jesselton’s wall and included the hardest and the first ever 8a grade route(arguable) in Penang. FA – Soon, Penang, 18 May 2013 (Remarks : For Png climber : 8a with limited hand&foot hold access which marked in white color paint Newly bolted by Soon on 13 April 2013)

7c+Sport 19m, 11
10 No Man's Land Direct

FA – Mohd Halil, S’pore.

7bSport 18m, 8
11 No Man's Land

Start from slightly right. NH – The route is so far away from all the other routes that it’s on "No Man’s Land". And it was the hardest route in Jesselton’s wall at that time. FA – Iqmal, Johor

7a+Sport 18m, 8
12 Feel The Sun ( New)

The route was named after a remarkable "Feel The Sun" concept which shared by an ex-Penang climber who has migrated to oversea few years ago. The concept teach us to access the true power of intention through feel the Sun in manifesting our wishes and goals. So, whoever want to on-sight this route, you may find it easier by applying the concept here. :) FA – Soon, Penang, 27 April 2013

7bSport 18m, 11
13 Propered Anchor ( New)

Part of new routes bolted at 2012 by fellow climber ( Bernard Spack ) from Switzerland. After No Man's Land 2nd route to the right.

7aSport 18m, 8
14 Dare to Dream, Dare to Soar ( New )

Each person, at some stage in their life, has had a dream or fantasy of doing or becoming something. To climb a 8a route sound impossible and hard to imagine for me ever since I started climbing. However, until I setup and bolted this new route. Everything seems possible and reasonably doable. It was my mind holding me back all this while. So, let’s live our dream today and "I'm-Possible !" - Soon. FA – Soon, Penang, 10 March 2013 (Remarks : For Png climber : 8a with limited hand&foot hold access which marked in white color paint.

7c+ to 8aSport 18m, 9
15 First Multipitch ( New )

Bolted at 2012.Just opposite the main wall. Unclimbed so far. Cautions : Those fixed slings ( yellow static rope ) at the pitches anchors are about 2 years old from the date it was bolted.Not recommended for anchoring ownself or taking any loads. Do setup your own anchor using the existing metal bolts or anchor in this case for safety purposes ( update as at 17th April 2014).

5c to 7aSport 80m
16 Rocking Your World ( New )

This slab climb is bolted by fellow climbers from RockWorld climbing gym Kulai ,Johor.

5cSport 10m, 4
17 White Guy Snoring ( New )

This slab climb is located just to the far right of the First Multipitch route.

The route was named as our fellow climber from Switzerland got a hangover from Penang's night life.Instead of joining us to climb the slab he bolted, he took a nap at the hammock tied right under the route.

Bolted at 2012 by Bernard Spack ( Switzerland ).

5cSport 10m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5c Rocking Your World ( New ) Sport 10m, 4
White Guy Snoring ( New ) Sport 10m, 4
6a Dead Monkey Sport 16m, 7
6a+ From London with Love Sport 15m, 6
Sister Psychosis Sport 6m, 4
The Tooth Sport 16m, 6
You, Me and Dog named Blue Sport 6m, 4
6b * The Cream of Extreme Sport 9m, 6
6c Si Katik Sadis Sport 6m, 4
6c+ Whistle Blower ( New ) Sport 17m, 7
7a Propered Anchor ( New) Sport 18m, 8
7a+ No Man's Land Sport 18m, 8
7b Feel The Sun ( New) Sport 18m, 11
No Man's Land Direct Sport 18m, 8
7c+ "Soon" Wu Kong / Monkey God ( New) Sport 19m, 11
7c+ to 8a Dare to Dream, Dare to Soar ( New ) Sport 18m, 9
5c to 7a First Multipitch ( New ) Sport 80m