A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Victoria Lines 93 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.450154, 35.929132

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fortifications stretching 12km, built by the British Army between 1870 and 1899

Description:

Victoria lines is set along the the Great Fault which divides Malta from Madliena in the north to Fomm ir-Rih bay in the west.

Scattered along the Great Fault is a number of fortifications built by the British army between 1870 and 1899, among the fortifications are batteries and and infantry line connected together to form a single line of defense.

Access and parking is great at this crag with most walk-ins less than 15min. The two main locations to climb are in the north and west of the Great Fault.

The climbing style is trad on solid white limestone and mostly short routes between 15m and 30m.

Areas located within the valley can be climbed throughout the day by switching from one wall to the other as the sun moves around. Areas outside the vallies face north and best climbed in the morning to avoid the afternoon sun.

Approach:

Along the entire Great Fault there is plenty of parking and most sectors are located within an easy 15min walk.

Ethic:

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

  1. As rap points, and

  2. where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

1.1. Wied Faham East 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455981, 35.932676

Description:

The first crag located in the north east. It has and easy approach and is located by looking for the large dam at its entrance.

Approach:

From the Splash and Fun Park at Bahar ic-Caghaq, take a slip road heading towards the crags. follow this to the chapel and turn right. Take the second left and park at the dead end right beneath the short crag.

Walk up to the crag and the first routes are just to the left.

1.1.1. Villa Crag 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.456007, 35.932679

Description:

Afternoon sun

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Bulger

The small overhang above the slab, at the far left end of the crag

4aTrad 6m
2 Mantelshelf Wall

The wall and overlap just right of Little Bulger. Start at the recess on the right.

4bTrad 8m
3 * Slanting Buttress

Follow the crackline up the slabby buttress with a concreate filled groove low down. Vegetated at its base

VDTrad 12m
4 Slanting Buttress Direct

The concrete filled groove on the right. Delicate and thin to start but gets progressively easier

5bTrad 12m

1.1.2. Hangover Buttress 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455902, 35.932552

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ekburg

The slab and deep cleft beneath the fig tree

VDTrad 6m
2 ** False Start

The pocketed wall and small overhang directly behind the WD No. 24 marker stone.

4bTrad 10m
3 Hangover Buttress

To the right is an overhang above two black streaks. Past these to a bush, then up a groove

4bTrad 10m
4 Sprint Finish

The right hand end of the overhangs

4bTrad 10m

1.1.3. Twin Caves 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Two caves with a hanging central piller above the block wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Friendly Dogs

Climb the central pillar directly

5aTrad 12m
2 ** Pedestal Wall

Up the central pillar, moving right along the hanging bar to finish up a short wall.

4bTrad 12m
3 Resurrection Shuffle

Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang.

4bTrad 8m
4 Crickey

The wall right of the cave, climb the left-slanting crack.

4bTrad 8m

1.1.4. Final Buttress 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The next three routes are on the tall buttress right of the twin caves

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Final Crack

The crack in the buttress passing some (Ts) at the top.

4bTrad 10m
2 *** Final Wall

Centrally up the furrowed wall

4bTrad 10m
3 Final Arete

The pocketed wall right, the up the arete. Around the corner, at the end of the brick wall.

4bTrad 10m
4 Final Buttress

A direct line up the tall buttress just right of the brick wall.

Trad 15m

1.1.5. The Giant's Ear 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This is the next buttress round the right and inside Wied Faham proper

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Giant's ear Left Start

Climb the buttress just to the right of the end of the brick wall.

DTrad 15m
2 The Giant's ear

The thin crack to a ledge then step right to a crack, finish by the ear

HVDTrad 15m
3 Brown Deidre

The black corner just right finishing as for The Giant's ear

VDTrad 15m
4 About Time

Starting in the corner, climb the crack keeping left of the cave

5aTrad 14m

1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

15m right is a large cave perched above a brick wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short Buttress

Takes the pillar left of the cave

DTrad 6m
2 Carambola

Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap.

5cTrad 6m
3 Caqlembuta

Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs

5bTrad 5m
4 Colpogrosso

TFrom the back of the cave climb the rusty wall to a left-slanting crack and through the V-gap to finish

5aTrad 8m
5 ** The Lurcher

The right hand inside wall of the cave finishing up the righthand V-groove past a chock stone.

4cTrad 8m
6 Hot Crumpet

The leaning right hand pillar of the cave. Start inside the cave trending right to pass a horizontal crack at half-height

5aTrad 10m

1.1.7. Chute Buttress 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

An excellent white buttress set between two caves

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Shallow Groove Route

The steep groove forming the left side of the buttress just right of the cave. Finish right over the bulge

4cTrad 15m
2 ** Chute Buttress Direct

The vague groove just to the right passing a good thread. Finish left up a crack

5aTrad 15m
3 ** Asinine Ascension

The wall right, passing a scoop

5aTrad 15m
4 Chute

The meandering crack on the right to a rib. Follow this to the top.

VDTrad 15m

1.1.8. The Gape Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

To the right is a cave with a large villa sitting almost on top.

Beyond this cave the path continues past some broken buttresses to pass below a low, jutting overhang and a second, higher overhang.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Black Sweat

The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best

5b+Trad 8m
2 ** The Gape

Climb the back of the large bubbly brown cave starting at the diagonal crack. Up left past a thread to exit left of the hole on good jugs. Pumpy

5aTrad 15m
3 * No Sweat

Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs.

5cTrad 15m

1.1.9. Practice Point 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

The path continues beyond this point to pass beneath the defensive wall. Through the wall and left are some grey walls offering some short but good routes (or extended boulders for some)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Practice Roof One

The short, sharp overhang.

V1Boulder 4m
2 Practice Roof Two

First slab then another overhang finish

V0-Boulder 6m

1.2. Behind the Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.456756, 35.930638

1.2.1. Main Sector 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

An excellent soloing/bouldering or top-roping area with potential at higher grades. Short grey walls upstream from the defensive wall and at the bottom of the stains. The first route starts immediately behind the lines.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short and Steep

The slab left of the concrete chimney.

VDTrad 5m
2 * Longer and Steeper

Gain the concrete chimney from below, climb the right edge of the top chimney then swing right to finish up the wall.

5aTrad 6m
3 * Swift Undercut

The center of the wall

5cTrad 6m
4 * Temptation

Pockets just left of Birds Nest Crack.

5bTrad 6m
5 Birds Nest Crack

Up a thin crack near the righthand end of the wall

4cTrad 6m
6 Scooped Corner

A descent route above the boulder

DTrad 5m
7 * Mid-Line Girdle

Start at the boulder, traverse left mid-height to the end.

V0Boulder 12m
8 * Esscence of Fig

Right of the boulder behind the carob tree and above a cracked corner. Go over a bulge into a bowl and finish up the crack above. Route os overgrown with vegetation.

4cTrad 7m
9 ** Sombrero

The lefthand section of a bulging wall above a shelf. Sharp pockets and no gear

V4Boulder 8m
10 * Deceptive

Start below a scoop at the righthand end of the wall above the shelf, up this to a t then left on big pockets to the top.

4bTrad 8m
11 Crokey

Just right is a left slanting crack behind the carob tree.

4bTrad 7m
12 Razor crack

Pass another crack and tree to climb a curved crack direct.

VDTrad 9m
13 * Engagement

Just to the right of Razor crack, climb the whitish streak on the left side of the grey wall.

5bTrad 8m
14 Disengagement

The bulge at the righthand end of the wall and above the start of the approach traverse

5bTrad 8m

1.2.2. Quarry Slabs 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

150m up the vally is a steepening slab with top scoop split by a blasting channel.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Scoop Left Wall

Start left of the scoop to climb smooth rock over a bulge, then up a wall to gain the scoop on the right

4aTrad 15m
2 Faith 'n' Friction

The short technical corner just right to a difficult "pull out" onto the upper slab. Finish as for previous route.

5aTrad 15m
3 * The Scoop

Climbs the clab to the blasting channel then up this to finish. Unprotected

4bTrad 14m
4 A Walk on the Wild Side

Climb the broken rib, step left and up a scoop by white marks to a ledge. Continue up to another ledge and finish by the blasting channel

VDTrad 15m
5 ** Technician's Groov

Climb a broken rib and the corner on the right to cross a bulge. Traverse right to a ledge and up the blasting channel

4bTrad 15m
6 The Jug what Wasn't

The easy angled brown slab on the opposite, east side of the vally, finishing right via scooped rock

DTrad 13m

1.3. Dam Crag 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455416, 35.931801

Description:

50m up the valley from the dam is a buttress with a deep orange-colored scoop. Beware the brambles beneath.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Faham Fault - Left Wall

Down and left of the scoop is a steep cracked wall. Climb thin cracks then step right to a groove. Step left into a scoop then finish up the crack as for The High Road

4aTrad 20m
2 The High Road

Start in the scoop. Gain the large pocket on the Lefthand wall. Traverse left onto the outside face then either climb the steep crack above (harder) or go left to finish up an easier slab.

4bTrad 14m
3 * Power Failure

Wide bridging directly up the scoop to a steep and powerful pull-out at the top.

5aTrad 14m
4 ** Marmalade

The lefthand thin crack line right of the scoop with an awkward move to gain a ledge at half height. Step right to finish

5bTrad 14m
5 Graffiti

The diagonal righthand crack on the wall right of the scoop finishing left past two horizontal breaks

4bTrad 15m
6 Faham Fault

Takes a line right of the deep, elongated hole past a steep scoop, then up a short wall to finish

4bTrad 15m
7 Madalena Buttress

A historic route that climbs the buttress 10m right of the brown scoop using larg holds. Originally described by Showell Styles in his 1949 guidebook.

FA: Showell Styles, 1949

MTrad 15m

1.4. Wimp's Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455441, 35.930889

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Noel's Route

A deep groove leading to a think crack, 4m left of the wide crack.

VDTrad 7m
2 Look a Crack

The wide crack.

HDTrad 7m
3 ** Hanging Crack

The hanging crack on the right.

4bTrad 7m
4 ** Wimps Wall

The wall just right, then up a shallow scoop with a thin crack in it.

4cTrad 7m
5 * Wankers Wall

The crack and groove 1m right

4cTrad 7m
6 ** Little Dick

150m further uphill (downstream) just beneath the defensive wall, is a hidden bay with a low cave in the back of it. Some good bouldering areas around the cave.

For this route Start at the back of the vegetated bay. Pull up right of a black streak and past a thread.

5cTrad 5m

1.5. Cikka 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.453615, 35.931808

1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

A large cave at the mouth of the valley, characterised by a crescent shaped hole in its left side and with solid buttresses either side. The first route is on the first buttress right of the descent.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Look Out Wall

Virtually any line up the buttress.

VDTrad 9m
2 Look out chimney

The chimney to the right pulling out left past a flake at the top

4bTrad 9m
3 Landover

A direct line over the root capping the chimney. Very escapable.

5aTrad 10m
4 Fall Out Wall

The next buttress right. Vegetated.

DTrad 15m
5 Look C Chimney

The next chimney on the right

4bTrad 10m
6 Tin Can Alley

The wall, getting harder the further right you go.

MTrad 13m
7 *** Unknown Soldier

The lefthand rim of the cave, past good threads

5aTrad 10m
8 ** Cikka

Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards.

5cTrad 10m
9 ** Cicciolina

Up the crescent but reach for the rat-hole and exist direct

6aTrad 10m
10 ** Cikku

A crucifixion just right of the crescent. Span minimalist tufas and visualise a long reach to underclings. The rest is easy by comparison. The grade is hight dependent.

6b+Trad 10m
11 ** Custer's Last Stand

A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole.

5cTrad 10m
12 The Cavalry

The bulge just right, then a black streak in a corner scoop.

6aTrad 10m
13 Fig Leaf Arete

The right edge of the cave stepping right from the cave to gain the upper arete

4bTrad 15m
14 Fig Leaf Buttress

A line right of the cave mouth with a traverse right to a scoop and easy finish

4aTrad 15m
15 Wham Bam

The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish.

5cTrad 18m
16 With Love From Room 109 at the Islander

The righthand edge of the second smaller recess, trending left u pthe corner buttress.

5aTrad 18m
17 *** Flake Wall

The groove into a recess, then skirt the top bulge.

4aTrad 18m
18 ** Maquis

Just right of the groove past a good (T). Take the bulge direct.

4cTrad 18m
19 * Mamba

The crack and groove 1m right

4cTrad 15m
20 ** Wafer Wall

Boulder up the lefthand edge of the hollow on small, positive holds

5BBoulder 8m

1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Drive in as for Wied Fham West Side. Scramble down near the metal bollards, then down the boulder field and rubble filled gully to the right (looking down). Walk west beneath the lines from the Cikka area for about 150m, past a boulder field then a cave to reach a 15m buttress. An excellent short wall just under the lines, worth putting up with the trek and the brambles at the bottom.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Silver Moon

From the top of the leaning block, move straight u pjust right of and easier groove. Gain the vegetated ledge and base of an alcove. Climb to the right of this passing a welcome (T). Going directly past the alcove is HVS

4cTrad 12m
2 * Deadline

Start from the block, then move up diagonally right to gain the base of the diagonal right-facing flake crack. Move up a steep wall to gain this feature and follow it to the top.

5aTrad 12m
3 * The Phoenix

Start from man-eating vegation about 6m right of the leaning block. Up the center of the buttress to the base of the left-facing flake crack. Up this to the top.

5aTrad 12m
4 ** Top of the World

The slab and bulge, replete with a right-facing flake. Brilliant if you can get to the base of the route.

5aTrad 12m
5 Avalance Express

Start just right of Top of the World, moving up to a steep, featureless wall. Gain a (t), finishing up the right-slanting ramp line. Poor gear.

5aTrad 12m

1.6. Stone Hut Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.7. Ta' Boys Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.8. Crazy Horse Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.9. Gharghur Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.10. Stairway to Heaven 0 routes in Cliff

1.11. Crucifix Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.12. Monolith Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.13. Blind Cave 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
M Madalena Buttress Trad 15m 1.3. Dam Crag
Tin Can Alley Trad 13m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
D Giant's ear Left Start Trad 15m 1.1.5. The Giant's Ear
HD Look a Crack Trad 7m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
VD * Slanting Buttress Trad 12m 1.1.1. Villa Crag
Ekburg Trad 6m 1.1.2. Hangover Buttress
Brown Deidre Trad 15m 1.1.5. The Giant's Ear
Chute Trad 15m 1.1.7. Chute Buttress
Razor crack Trad 9m 1.2.1. Main Sector
Short and Steep Trad 5m 1.2.1. Main Sector
A Walk on the Wild Side Trad 15m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
Noel's Route Trad 7m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
Look Out Wall Trad 9m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
HVD The Giant's ear Trad 15m 1.1.5. The Giant's Ear
4a Little Bulger Trad 6m 1.1.1. Villa Crag
Scoop Left Wall Trad 15m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
Faham Fault - Left Wall Trad 20m 1.3. Dam Crag
Fig Leaf Buttress Trad 15m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
*** Flake Wall Trad 18m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
4b ** False Start Trad 10m 1.1.2. Hangover Buttress
Hangover Buttress Trad 10m 1.1.2. Hangover Buttress
Sprint Finish Trad 10m 1.1.2. Hangover Buttress
Crickey Trad 8m 1.1.3. Twin Caves
** Pedestal Wall Trad 12m 1.1.3. Twin Caves
Resurrection Shuffle Trad 8m 1.1.3. Twin Caves
Final Arete Trad 10m 1.1.4. Final Buttress
** Final Crack Trad 10m 1.1.4. Final Buttress
*** Final Wall Trad 10m 1.1.4. Final Buttress
Crokey Trad 7m 1.2.1. Main Sector
* Deceptive Trad 8m 1.2.1. Main Sector
** Technician's Groov Trad 15m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
* The Scoop Trad 14m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
Faham Fault Trad 15m 1.3. Dam Crag
Graffiti Trad 15m 1.3. Dam Crag
The High Road Trad 14m 1.3. Dam Crag
** Hanging Crack Trad 7m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
Fig Leaf Arete Trad 15m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
Look C Chimney Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
Look out chimney Trad 9m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
Mantelshelf Wall Trad 8m 1.1.1. Villa Crag
V0- Practice Roof Two Boulder 6m 1.1.9. Practice Point
4c ** The Lurcher Trad 8m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
** Shallow Groove Route Trad 15m 1.1.7. Chute Buttress
Birds Nest Crack Trad 6m 1.2.1. Main Sector
* Esscence of Fig Trad 7m 1.2.1. Main Sector
* Wankers Wall Trad 7m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
** Wimps Wall Trad 7m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
* Mamba Trad 15m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
** Maquis Trad 18m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
* Silver Moon Trad 12m 1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress
5a ** Friendly Dogs Trad 12m 1.1.3. Twin Caves
Colpogrosso Trad 8m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
Hot Crumpet Trad 10m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
** Asinine Ascension Trad 15m 1.1.7. Chute Buttress
** Chute Buttress Direct Trad 15m 1.1.7. Chute Buttress
** The Gape Trad 15m 1.1.8. The Gape Cave
* Longer and Steeper Trad 6m 1.2.1. Main Sector
Faith 'n' Friction Trad 15m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
* Power Failure Trad 14m 1.3. Dam Crag
Landover Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
*** Unknown Soldier Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
With Love From Room 109 at the Islander Trad 18m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
Avalance Express Trad 12m 1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress
* Deadline Trad 12m 1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress
* The Phoenix Trad 12m 1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress
** Top of the World Trad 12m 1.5.2. Top of the World Buttress
V0 * Mid-Line Girdle Boulder 12m 1.2.1. Main Sector
5b Disengagement Trad 8m 1.2.1. Main Sector
* Engagement Trad 8m 1.2.1. Main Sector
* Temptation Trad 6m 1.2.1. Main Sector
** Marmalade Trad 14m 1.3. Dam Crag
5b+ Black Sweat Trad 8m 1.1.8. The Gape Cave
5c Carambola Trad 6m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
* Swift Undercut Trad 6m 1.2.1. Main Sector
** Little Dick Trad 5m 1.4. Wimp's Wall
** Cikka Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
** Custer's Last Stand Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
Wham Bam Trad 18m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
5a About Time Trad 14m 1.1.5. The Giant's Ear
6a ** Cicciolina Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
The Cavalry Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
V1 ** Practice Roof One Boulder 4m 1.1.9. Practice Point
5B ** Wafer Wall Boulder 8m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
5b Slanting Buttress Direct Trad 12m 1.1.1. Villa Crag
Caqlembuta Trad 5m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
6b+ ** Cikku Trad 10m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment
5c * No Sweat Trad 15m 1.1.8. The Gape Cave
V4 ** Sombrero Boulder 8m 1.2.1. Main Sector
? Final Buttress Trad 15m 1.1.4. Final Buttress
D Short Buttress Trad 6m 1.1.6. The Lurcher Cave
Scooped Corner Trad 5m 1.2.1. Main Sector
The Jug what Wasn't Trad 13m 1.2.2. Quarry Slabs
Fall Out Wall Trad 15m 1.5.1. Cikka Escarpment