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Ethic inherited from Victoria Lines

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

  1. As rap points, and

  2. where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

Routes

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Grade Route
1
UK VD Noel's Route Trad 7m

A deep groove leading to a think crack, 4m left of the wide crack.

2
UK HD Look a Crack Trad 7m

The wide crack.

3
FR 4b ** Hanging Crack Trad 7m

The hanging crack on the right.

4
FR 4c ** Wimps Wall Trad 7m

The wall just right, then up a shallow scoop with a thin crack in it.

5
FR 4c * Wankers Wall Trad 7m

The crack and groove 1m right

6
FR 5c ** Little Dick Trad 5m

150m further uphill (downstream) just beneath the defensive wall, is a hidden bay with a low cave in the back of it. Some good bouldering areas around the cave.

For this route Start at the back of the vegetated bay. Pull up right of a black streak and past a thread.