Region Guide for Malta

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Malta 159 routes in Region

13

1 Victoria Lines, 3 Wied Babu

seasonality

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 14.421488, 35.928907

1.1. Victoria Lines 93 routes in Crag

15342

1 Wied Faham East, 2 Behind the Wall, 3 Dam Crag, 4 Wimp's Wall, 5 Cikka

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.450154, 35.929132

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fortifications stretching 12km, built by the British Army between 1870 and 1899

Description:

Victoria lines is set along the the Great Fault which divides Malta from Madliena in the north to Fomm ir-Rih bay in the west.

Scattered along the Great Fault is a number of fortifications built by the British army between 1870 and 1899, among the fortifications are batteries and and infantry line connected together to form a single line of defense.

Access and parking is great at this crag with most walk-ins less than 15min. The two main locations to climb are in the north and west of the Great Fault.

The climbing style is trad on solid white limestone and mostly short routes between 15m and 30m.

Areas located within the valley can be climbed throughout the day by switching from one wall to the other as the sun moves around. Areas outside the vallies face north and best climbed in the morning to avoid the afternoon sun.

Approach:

Along the entire Great Fault there is plenty of parking and most sectors are located within an easy 15min walk.

Ethic:

As with most of Malta bolting is discouraged, a few exceptions are allowed

1. As rap points, and

2. where ground strikes are likely

but otherwise there are enough points to place gear

1.1.1. Wied Faham East 35 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455981, 35.932676

Description:

The first crag located in the north east. It has and easy approach and is located by looking for the large dam at its entrance.

Approach:

From the Splash and Fun Park at Bahar ic-Caghaq, take a slip road heading towards the crags. follow this to the chapel and turn right. Take the second left and park at the dead end right beneath the short crag.

Walk up to the crag and the first routes are just to the left.

1.1.2. Behind the Wall 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.456756, 35.930638

1.1.3. Dam Crag 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455416, 35.931801

Description:

50m up the valley from the dam is a buttress with a deep orange-colored scoop. Beware the brambles beneath.

1.1.4. Wimp's Wall 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 14.455441, 35.930889

1.1.5. Cikka 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.6. Stone Hut Area 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.7. Ta' Boys Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.8. Crazy Horse Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.9. Gharghur Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.10. Stairway to Heaven 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.11. Crucifix Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.12. Monolith Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.13. Blind Cave 0 routes in Cliff

1.2. Valletta 0 routes in Crag

1.3. Wied Babu 61 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 14.459314, 35.823192

Description:

Climbing in Wied Babu in Malta is quite an eri experience, it is in an dried out cannon. It is easy to imagine the whole cannon being full of water and may even be come full while you are climbing, but that is not the case.

It is also interesting because of the old man and his gun, shooting at the birds all day long. We never saw him hit anything but every 15min you will hear the gun. As the story goes he has taken shots at climbers, although we never got shoot at.

Ethic:

There a a bird shooter here so dont spend too much time setting up your rap station. While no one has been killed, it is rumored that he may take a shot at you. We have been assured by our guide that being shoot at only hurts a little

1.3.1. Bobo's Block 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad

Approach:

This is the first section on the left as you come out of the scrub

1.3.2. Diamond Buttress 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport,Trad

1.3.3. Central Chimnys 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad,Sport

1.3.4. il-Blata ta' Ghancula 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Boulder

1.3.5. The Flying Arete 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport,Trad

1.3.6. West Side Story 0 routes in Sector

Description:

The climbing here in west side story is very sharp and sea worn. As with the rest of Malta it is mostly trad climbing although from time to time there are people putting up bolted routes. However dont expect this to be a growing trend, bolting is discouraged.

1.3.7. East Side 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport,Trad and Boulder

Description:

About 30 routes.Most part in 5 an 6 grade.

Approach:

follow the road to zurrieq from the car park over blue grotto. And go down in the canyon on your right. 15mn from the car park. Routes on the both side of the canyon.

1.3.8. Let it Bleed 0 routes in Sector

1.4. Ix-Xaqqa Gully 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Ghar Lapsi 0 routes in Crag

1.6. Sunset Boulevard - Victoria Lines 0 routes in Crag

1.7. Il-Bejta tal-Fenek 0 routes in Crag

1.8. Cikka 0 routes in Crag

1.9. Crazy Horse Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.10. Crucifix Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.11. Mgarr Xini Canyon, Gozo 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown