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El Chonta (El Hoyanco) All Sport climbing

64 routes in crag
  • Grades: US
  • Approach time: 45/75m from Bartolo/Procopio
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 20

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Summary

Great holds and rests everywhere, extremely long single pitches on very overhanging, 3D terrain!

Description

This is the Hoyanco (Chonta) cave... Get the guidebook from Vertimania in Mexico City (may be out of date)! Just don't go to the ranch of Don Procopio, go to Don Bartolo's. NOT IN CHONTACOATLAN! For a good guide on how to get there, see http://vimeo.com/64006776 , keeping in mind that the next ranch in front of the cornfield (the one with the sign that says "Grutas del Chonta") is Don Bartolo's ranch, that is closer, but doesn't provide donkeys. CLIMBS ARE LISTED LEFT TO RIGHT.

Access issues

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 20 pesos per person as well as 20 pesos per car as per late 2013.

Approach

See description.

Where to stay

You can camp in front of the cave, plenty of spots to pitch a tent. You have to bring food and water though! This you can ask Procopio to bring over, for a relatively small fee (I believe it is 80 pesos). You can actually bathe in the Chontacoatlan river down at the edge of Don Bartolo's cornfield, inside a cave larger than Hoaynco!

Ethic

Carry out all of your garbage, no chipping holds.

Routes

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Grade Route

Easiest route all the way to the left of the cave, probably not as much fun as any in the cave though!

Second one from left to right. Better than Katman, and it keeps getting better to the right!

Links into Seres Inorganicos's anchors, big traverse to the right.

The route right of Fructaliser. A tough start leads to very enjoyable climbing to a spicy finish.

The route right of El Aliado. Brilliant, unique climbing that packs a punch. Solid at the grade.

The obvious super-overhanging line that follows the "fang-line" of the left hand side of the cave. Apparently another classic!

NO ANCHORS ON THIS ONE!

This is the classic 12d/13a of the bottom of the cave. From the biggest mud platform you will be able to see in the wall, written in black at about 2.5m up, "El Jaguar". Up the tufas into multiple steep, tough, pumpy cruxes with excellent rests and moves in between. Very long!

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out!

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Pumpy, fun, unique, and excellent climbing.

2nd pitch of Mala Fama.

3rd pitch of Mala Fama.

4th pitch of Mala Fama.

5th pitch of Mala Fama.

6th pitch of Mala Fama.

7th and ast pitch of Mala Fama. Top it out! No anchors XD

2nd (INCOMPLETE) pitch of Perdiendo la Forma Humana

Belayer, be careful!

Mostly long slings! Lots of friction!

Ultra Classic of the easier routes in the cave.

FROM THIS ROUTE FORWARD, THIS IS THE REINA DEL SUR SECTOR. LEFT TO RIGHT!

Activity

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