El Chonta (El Hoyanco) All sport climbing

64 routes in crag

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Summary

Great holds and rests everywhere, extremely long single pitches on very overhanging, 3D terrain!

Description

This is the Hoyanco (Chonta) cave... Get the guidebook from Vertimania in Mexico City (may be out of date)! Just don't go to the ranch of Don Procopio, go to Don Bartolo's. NOT IN CHONTACOATLAN! For a good guide on how to get there, see http://vimeo.com/64006776 , keeping in mind that the next ranch in front of the cornfield (the one with the sign that says "Grutas del Chonta") is Don Bartolo's ranch, that is closer, but doesn't provide donkeys. CLIMBS ARE LISTED LEFT TO RIGHT.

Access issues

A small fee is payable to the rancher with which you arrive, typically 20 pesos per person as well as 20 pesos per car as per late 2013.

Approach

See description.

Where to stay

You can camp in front of the cave, plenty of spots to pitch a tent. You have to bring food and water though! This you can ask Procopio to bring over, for a relatively small fee (I believe it is 80 pesos). You can actually bathe in the Chontacoatlan river down at the edge of Don Bartolo's cornfield, inside a cave larger than Hoaynco!

Ethic

Carry out all of your garbage, no chipping holds.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10c Katman Sport 25m, 13

Easiest route all the way to the left of the cave, probably not as much fun as any in the cave though!

2
5.11c * Fructisica Sport 25m, 19

Second one from left to right. Better than Katman, and it keeps getting better to the right!

3
5.11c * Variant Fructaliser Sport 24m, 9

Links into Seres Inorganicos's anchors, big traverse to the right.

4
5.11b ** El Aliado Sport 20m, 12

The route right of Fructaliser. A tough start leads to very enjoyable climbing to a spicy finish.

5
5.11a *** Seres Inorganicos Sport 20m, 12

The route right of El Aliado. Brilliant, unique climbing that packs a punch. Solid at the grade.

6
5.13a *** Ataxco Sport 32m, 21

The obvious super-overhanging line that follows the "fang-line" of the left hand side of the cave. Apparently another classic!

7
5.12d La Cascada Sport 35m, 13
8
5.12c UNKNOWN Sport 35m, 13

NO ANCHORS ON THIS ONE!

9
5.13a *** El Jaguar Sport 40m, 18

This is the classic 12d/13a of the bottom of the cave. From the biggest mud platform you will be able to see in the wall, written in black at about 2.5m up, "El Jaguar". Up the tufas into multiple steep, tough, pumpy cruxes with excellent rests and moves in between. Very long!

10
5.13a ** Jaguar RHV Sport 35m, 13
11
5.12d ** La Gran Tufa Sport 35m, 16
12
5.12c * La Onza Sport 35m, 18
13
5.12b *** Mantis Sport 35m, 19

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out!

14
5.12a *** Mala Fama (primer largo) Sport 35m, 17

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Pumpy, fun, unique, and excellent climbing.

15
5.12c Mala Fama (2do largo) Sport 35m, 12

2nd pitch of Mala Fama.

16
5.12d Mala Fama (3er largo) Sport 35m, 12

3rd pitch of Mala Fama.

17
5.12c Mala Fama (4to largo) Sport 35m, 8

4th pitch of Mala Fama.

18
5.12d Mala Fama (5to largo) Sport 35m, 11

5th pitch of Mala Fama.

19
5.13a Mala Fama (6to largo) Sport 35m, 14

6th pitch of Mala Fama.

20
5.10c Mala Fama (7mo largo) Sport 25m, 9

7th and ast pitch of Mala Fama. Top it out! No anchors XD

21
5.12c * La Cruzada Sport 35m, 15
23

2nd (INCOMPLETE) pitch of Perdiendo la Forma Humana

24
5.13b * Tufa tu Madre Sport 35m, 15
25
5.14b *** Mexicano Perdido Sport 35m, 16

Belayer, be careful!

26
5.13c ** Aguila Magnetica Azul Sport 50m, 27
27
5.13d ** Chinchangueando Sport 35m
28
5.13d *** El Ermitaño Sport 35m
29
5.13d *** Planta Baja Sport 45m, 23
30
5.13d *** Magico Mistico Musical Sport 35m
31
5.13a Conocimiento S. Sport 50m, 24
32
5.13a * Ay Doctor! Sport 25m, 12
33
5.13a * Jaime Maussan Sport 25m, 13
34
5.13b La Verdad Irrefutable Sport 45m, 21
35
5.13b El Gran Espiritu Sport 40m, 20
36
5.12c El Aguila que Devora Sport 30m, 15
37
5.12d * Trypanosoma Cruzi Sport 25m, 12

Mostly long slings! Lots of friction!

38
5.12a ** El Corrido de los Procopio Sport 25m, 11
39
5.13a ** Mezcalito Sport 35m
44
5.10a Amateur Sport 35m
45
5.11b T-800 Sport 35m
46
5.10b La Tesucana Sport 25m, 11
47
5.13b * Silencio Interno Sport 65m, 34
48
5.12c *** Amate Amarillo Sport 35m, 18

Ultra Classic of the easier routes in the cave.

49
5.13c * Las Tres Atenciones Sport 60m, 29
50
5.13a * Guerrera Cosmica Sport 40m, 19
51
5.14a *** El Pendulo Sport 60m, 29
52
5.14b *** Revelacion Cosmica Sport 60m, 28
53
5.13d * Mago Colibri Sport 60m, 30
54
5.12d La Bocina Sport 20m, 9

FROM THIS ROUTE FORWARD, THIS IS THE REINA DEL SUR SECTOR. LEFT TO RIGHT!

55
5.12d Efecto Gatillo Sport 35m, 18
56
5.13b El Tigrillo Sport 35m, 18
57
5.13b Bio Sport 21m, 10
58
5.13c Bio Tigre Sport 35m
59
5.13c Pepita de Oro Sport 40m, 20
60
5.13c Jugo de Toronja Sport 42m, 21
61
5.12d Rey del Sur Sport 25m, 12
62
5.12b Sictch Sport 30m, 15
63
5.12a Farrita Sport 30m, 15
64
5.10b Mini Bar Sport

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