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Pena de Bernal (single & multipitch) Mostly sport climbing

16 routes in feature

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Description

This is the multipitching (and most obvious) sector.

Access issues inherited from Bernal

When multipitching, you will have to register before climbing. Be discrete and if you go multipitching on a public holiday or weekend, make sure to tell tourists to step well away while climbing the first pitches of routes that are on the tourist trail.

When accessing the bouldering and sport climbing area, you will be charged a fee of (at the time of writing) 50 MXN (around 3.5 USD) per person. This fee is paid to the representatives of the Rancho Chichi'Dho, who own this area. They use the money to maintain the trails, pick up trash, and rejuvenate the flora and fauna of the area, so it is well-spent.

Pets are allowed as long as these behave or are on a leash.

ABSOLUTELY NO ILLEGAL DRUGS. This includes cannabis.

Approach

See the main "Approach" section.

Ethic inherited from Bernal

No chipping, erase tick marks after using them, bring out what you bring in, do not bring misbehaved dogs/pets, do not destroy local flora/fauna, do not play loud music, and be kind and respectful to the locals.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
5.10 *** Filo Suroeste Sport
2
5.10b Unknown 1 Sport

Right of EFS.

3
5.10b Unknown 2 Sport

Right of U1.

4
5.10a Unknown 3 Sport

Right of U2.

5
5.10b Unknown 4 Sport

Right of U3.

6
5.10a Unknown 5 Sport

Right of U4.

7
Unknown 6 Sport 7

Right of U5. Joins La Bernalina.

8
5.8 *** La Bernalina Sport 270m 7, 9

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

9

Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. En el 4° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con la bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir otra ruta. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte.

10
5.10a *** El Lado Obscuro de La Luna Sport 300m 7, 18

To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB.

11
5.10b *** Horizonte de Estrellas Sport 300m 7, 14

Right of ELODLL, Can rap off second anchors.

12
5.10a *** Asuntos Exteriores Sport 300m 5, 14

7m up past HDE. Last route on this wall. Can take trad gear to protect certain runouts.

13
5.7 ** Puma Sport 75m 2, 7

Friction slab on the obvious slab right and down from AE.

14
*** El Grillo Asesino Sport 300m 7, 10

Right and around Puma, this route goes straight up and finishes almost next to the rap station at the top.

15
5.10a *** El Filo Noroccidental Sport 300m 7, 9

Access as per Rancho Chichi'Dho. Go up as per La Meada and start on the right side of the huge "alcove" made by La Pena. Awesome route.

16
** Gondwana Aid 300m, 18

Project.