La Peña (single & multipitch) Guide

From Chichidho follow the trail that goes right towards the monolith, and when you hit a sharp left take it, it will lead you to the multiple single pitch routes, this route is the one with 2 anchors at the end of the ramp.

Grades according to the local guide book, 7 pitches if you don´t consider the approach pitch.

1. 5.5 "approach": Use a rope, it´s the bolted ramp that has multiple single pitch routes to it´s right.

2. 5.12a/b, after the first bolt, go towards the bolts on the left.

3. 5.8, big holds, easy climbing, lots of bolts.

4. 5.8, sharp but good holds, ends at a large dirt belay ledge.

5. 5.8, crux at the start of the pitch, scramble to the belay ledge.

6. 5.11a, well protected, requires balance.

7. 5.10a, crimps at the start of the pitch, the rest is easy.

8. 5.9, easy and fun, when you get to the dirt ledge, follow the metal cable to the left to get to the anchor, just below the summit.

Bring two ropes to rappel, or an 80 m rope

Godzilla Climbs to the right of King Kong on the King Kong Buttress. It starts just bellow King Kong. Another great addition to the wall. Destined to be a classic. A standard rack of 14 quickdraws and a 70m rope is all that is needed for the climb.

1. 5.9 Starts to the right of King Kong. The start has good hands and smears for feet leading to a crux at the midway point. Long pitch of 115 feet.

2. 10a Traverse right onto a slabby face with excellent movement finish on the start to the headwall. Another long pitch of 120 feet.

3. 10a Fun movement on big holds moving left to right with an ever steepening wall. 100 feet.

4. 10d This is the best pitch of the route. Start on a small slab to a small roof on big holds. Good footwork and a steady head take you into steeper terrain with the crux at midway. Hang in there as the climbing eases to the anchors.

Rappel straight down the route with a 70m rope. A 60m rope WILL NOT get you down!

From the Chichidho lodge: Head on trail straght towards the peña. The trail will trend right. When you hit a sharp left, take it. You will go past a boulder, and eventually veer right again towards the King Kong buttress. Walk past the ramp-like feature on your left. King Kong is identifiable for a round, nook-like intentation in the rock right below three close bolts.

1. 5.10c. Start off with a small boulder problem between bolt 1 and 3. Solid, fluid climbing thereon. - 11 quickdraws + R

2. 5.10b. A small ledge early on, followed by crimpy, vertical face climbing makes for an interesting pitch. Then a scramble up to the most comfortable belay ledges of the 4 pitches.

3. 5.10a. Relaxed, highly featured climbing. - 12 quickdraws + R

4. 5.10c. This is the King Kong pitch. Go up an eroded, water slide-looking feature, with sharp, funky holds on each side. Unique, gorgeous rock. Makes it all worth it. From here, you can continue four more pitches to the top of the so-called King Kong buttress.

5. 5.7. Go all the way up heading left through a funky scramble, follow the bolts up to a first set of chains on a comfy ledge where you can belay from above or follow the scramble up and left to a second set of chains on a comfy ledge also (if you do this, use a large quick draw to avoid rope drag)

6. 5.10b. From the belay station there is a deep ditch where you need to climb down before continue way up to the route. Sloppery holds and hidden crimps.

7. 5.10a. Bolts on this pitch tend to be spaced between each other but holds are in good condition. There is a set of chain which you can skip up to the next set.

8. 5.4. All the way up to the shoulder where the dirt ledge starts, follow the metal cable to the left to a set of anchors or continue up to a second set of anchors right in the summiit.

Rap down the route following the bolts, exactly were you climbed up. There as been many people who mistaken the rap route and got in trouble.

The crux pitch (11d/12a) is the third pitch, the two pitches below are around 11s, an the two pitches above are around 10s

Recomendaciones: - Cuerda de 70 m - 15 Tenchas Acceso: Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se encuentra al fondo del cañon del lado derecho, como a 20 metros a la izquierda de Meteoro Pegaso. Descenso por meteoro pegaso: Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros.

Recomendaciones:

• Cuerda de 70 m
• 15 Tenchas

Acceso:

Subir por el camino que va hacia la Quiote Wall, teniendo la pared al lado derecho, seguir ese camino hasta llegar a la base del cañon. Subir por el cañón hasta casi el final. La ruta se identifica por una piedra con forma triangular/cónica con un bolt a la izquierda de esa roca.

Descenso:

Se baja por donde se sube. OJO, el tercer largo mide un poco más de 30 metros por lo que se recomienda utilizar una cuerda de 70 metros.

the route all the way to the left on the overhung wall

the route to the right of el canto del zenzontle, is also on the overhung wall

The classic on the Northwest side. Exposed ridge climbing to the summit with great views on excellent rock.

Access either from Rancho Chichi'Dho or the Bernal parking above the city. Follow the trail that links the parking with Chichi'Dho until you see the nice wooden sign for El Filo Noroccidental. Hike up the trail, pass the huge overhanging boulder on the left and take the trail left to the wall. You will find expansion and glue-in bolts next to each other on pitch one.

Descent: There are 2 options, on the summit either hike left and pass the crosses. Scramble down a few round boulders (past some anchors) towards the top of the via ferrata. Rap down in 2 rappels along the via ferrata (if you have a 80m rope you can make it down to the first 4 iron bars of the ferrata in one go and downclimb the last few meters). Scramble down until you reach the tourist path and hike back to town. Alternatively there is a brand new rap line (as of March 2019) right on the summit just a few meters from the top anchor of El Filo Noroccidental.

• Pitch 1: Climb the slabby face, pass some bushes. Very well bolted (re-bolted with glue-ins), about 14 draws required.

• Pitch 2: Trend right from the anchor of P1 and continue on the slab with some more vertical sections. The first few meters lead you passed some bushes. Re-bolted with glue-ins.

• Pitch 3: Nice slab climbing on extremly featured rock until you reach a gully with a small face on its left leading to the ridge-line. Re-bolted with glue-ins.

• Pitch 4: From the anchor of P3 pass the gully and climb the face. You will see a slightly rusty bolt on the face from the anchor. Climb up to the rige-line and through nice features along it. From now on the bolting is more alpine and the next bolts harder to find - just keep climbing ;-).

• Pitch 5: There are multiple options for pitch 5. If ou have a 70 or 80m rope make this a very long pitch, just climb along the ridge-line and pass 2 anchors until the ridge is really narrow with chain anchors on it. With a shorter rope you might want to stop at one of the earlier anchors and make pitch 6 longer. Very exposed climbing with almost no bolts.

• Pitch 6: If you have pushed to the 70m anchor, this pitch is short and better protected. It ends on a huge ledge with anchors on the face above it.

• Pitch 7: A one move 5.10a up the face followed by nice slabby ridge-climbing to the summit.

Additional gear: not really needed, you might want to sling one or the other chicken-head.

A newer line leading up to the last pitch of "El Filo Noroccidental". Access as for El Filo Noroccidental but continue up higher (taking a right from the horizontal trail leading to the wall of El Filo Noroccidental) until you see the bolt-line going up the slab.

14-16 quickdraws is more than enough to link pitches for this one.

Descent: as for El Filo Noroccidental or "La Bernalina"

• Pitch 1: A steeper slab with excellent features on great rock leads to an anchor at a small ledge. - 7 bolts + R

• Pitch 2: Climb further up and trend slightly right on poorer quality rock. Especially before the anchor you pass a dirty / loose area right of the big detached boulder. Comfortable belay. 7 bolts + R

• Pitch 3: Climb the vertical face on smaller holds up and finish on a slab. This pitch also trends slightly right. Decent belay. 8 bolts + R

• Pitch 4: Start following the diagonal crack on slabby terrain. Hanging belay 6 Bolts + R

• Pitch 5: Spicier diagonal slab on sloppier holds, but feels good overall. Decent belay. Would recommend climbing one bolt above the anchor so that the next one leading has a pre-placed first quickdraw in. 9 Bolts + R

• Pitch 6: The money pitch. First crux is right after the first bolt, mantle your way up a sloppy feature, then its power endurance with some good rests in between. Second crux is almost at the top of the pitch, amazing sloppy undercling into some heinous crimps and then power endurance to the top. Worst belay of the route is on this station so ideally skip it and go to the next one. 10 Bolts + R (?)

• Pitch 7: Joins "El Filo Noroccidental" to top the route. 7 bolts + R (?)

Largo 5.13a después del A0 es un techo desplomado que va en diagonal

Some loose rock in the lower pitches, excellent quality higher up.

Right of EFS.

Right of U1.

Right of U2.

Right of U3.

Right of U4.

Right of U5. Joins La Bernalina.

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

1. 4 bolts + anchor

2. 4 bolts + anchor

3. 10 bolts + anchor

4. 4 bolts + anchor (long or alpine draws recommended)

5. 2 bolts + anchor (~20m walk / scramble on the ledge to the base of P6)

6. 15 bolts + anchor (some bolts can be skipped since a lot of them are very close together)

7. 1 bolt + anchor

P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left.

P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least).

Un multilargo muy bonito, el inicio es lo más duro de la ruta. Para identificarle los bolts son rosas. En el 2° largo se debe hacer una travesía a la izq para juntarse con La Bernalina o travesía a la derecha para seguir en ELODLL. A la derecha el grado es más fuerte.

Warning Fixed Gear: Deteriorated hangers - please avoid

To the right of Gigio (right of La Bernalina). Better protected than LB.

Warning Fixed Gear: Deteriorated hangers - please avoid

Right of ELODLL, Can rap off second anchors.

7m up past HDE. Last route on this wall. Can take trad gear to protect certain runouts.

The most right bolted route on the South Wall. It is about 30m uphill from La Bernalina.

1. 20m (5.6) 6 bolts + anchor

2. 25m (5.7) 8 bolts + anchor

Both pitches can be combined into one.

Left of el Filo Suroeste

Only bolted route on the Sunshine Wall as of Dec 2022 (All other routes have fixed hangers), it is also one of the classics and less busy.

The start is at the top of the ramp on the left when facing the black streak.

It is best to go back down through la Via Ferrata, see details in La Bernalina.

Runout line of bolts to a mid-wall rooflet half way to the anchors.

The second most popular route on the wall. It can be linked to el Filo Suroeste.

Second route to the left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall.

Left of the black water streak in the middle of the wall.

The black and water-polished route in the middle of the wall.

Last route on the right side of the wall, crumbly and with wide bolt spacing.

Friction slab on the obvious slab right and down from AE.

Right and around Puma, this route goes straight up and finishes almost next to the rap station at the top.