El Potrero Chico Mostly Sport climbing635 routes in crag
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El Potrero Chico is one of the world's premiere big wall sport climbing destinations with over 600 routes including more than a dozen big wall multi-pitch climbs.
El Potrero Chico park is located just outside the small town of Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico. Being just an hour away from the city of Monterrey, Mexico it is very easy to get here. Flights from the U.S. can have you to the climbing destination in as little as a half day. A taxi can take you from the airport to EPC in under an hour for about $45USD.
El Potrero Chico is also very easily driven to from the U.S. The most common route for driving comes through Nuevo Laredo at the border with Texas. After the border crossing the drive can be done in under 3 hours.
The size and beauty of the mountain here is incredible and is a wonderful site for the eyes. Come to Mexico and enjoy not just the climbing but the wonderful culture as well.
Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.
The rock climbing is split between the East and West side of the canyon. Most of the crags have a 1 to 5 minute approach while some of the crags have a 45+ minute approach from inside the canyon. Since most of the camping and lodging is just outside the park you will have a 10 to 15 minute walk to get inside the park.
Where to stay
Rancho El Sendero, Homero's, La Pagoda and La Posada all have excellent rooms and camping available all throughout the year. Reservations are best made ahead of time in the case you are trying to get one of their rooms or casitas for groups. Plan ahead as they can get booked up well before busy season.
Rancho El Sendero - https://www.facebook.com/ranchoelsendero Homeros - http://potrerochico.org/listing/homeros La Pogoda - http://potrerochico.org/listing/la-pagoda La Posada - http://www.elpotrerochico.mx/
There are also lots of other casitas in the area for rent as well. Contact information can be hard to find for these ones but you can maybe just show up and get lucky finding one of them. They will have signs posted out front for the climbers to see.
Ethic inherited from Nuevo León
Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.
This area saw it's development begin in the late 80's by more than a handful of people. Jeff Jackson, Ed Wright, Alex Catlin, Kurt Smith, Elaina Arenz, Dane Bass, Kevin Gallagher, Hank Caylor, Tony Faucett, Rick Watson, Craig McCudden, Curtis Mai, Todd McCray and a host of Austin climbers.
For the latest in guidebooks that are available in the area check out the following link: http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/el-potrero-chico-rock-climbing/
Check out what is happening in El Potrero Chico.