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Description

This area is directly above "The Wave".

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.9 X Sandra Trad 370m 15

First pitch has been bolted and partially cleaned to provide access to "The Vatican".

2
5.12 Aesop's Top rope

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

3
5.13 Pocket Socrates Sport 30m
4
5.13a ** Cyclops Sport 30m
5
5.12- * Malinche Sport 30m
6
5.10a ** Sin Soul Sport 30m

Old trad route that has been bolted.

7
5.9 El Pirata Sport 42m

Another retro-bolted trad route.

BEWARE: This route is too long even for a 70m rope, lots of loose rock in the rappel, lots of friction, lots of spikey plants. I would stay away from this one.

To rap on one rope, use anchor from "Sin Soul" as an intermediate.

8
5.11a * The Raven Sport 90m 3
9
5.10d * The Rattler Sport 90m 3
10
5.10a * The New Ape Man Sport 60m 3
11
5.11- La Primavera Trad 100m 3

Might find 3-4 bolts per pitch, but should bring gear.

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

12
5.10d ** Pitch Black Sport 6

Climbs the big black streak on the eastern side of the canyon at the top right of the Conundrums crag.

P1 - 5.9+ P2 - 5.10+ P3 - 5.9 P4 - 5.10+ P5 - 5.10- P6 - 5.10+

Use a 70 m rope.

FA: Marko Steffen, Mehgan Curry & Kevin Nicastro

13
5.10 Mexican Radio Trad 180m 5

Route should be considered dangerous due to rock fall potential.

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