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Lower Sense of Religion Mostly Sport climbing

59 routes in crag
  • Grades: US
  • Approach time: 10 minutes
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 574
  • Aka: Mota Wall

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Description

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

This crag is located in the back of the Potrero Chico area. Walk through the canyon to the back past the cattle guard. After crossing the cattle guard cross over the arroyo on the left and this is the bottom of the big wall that is the backside of El Potrero Chico.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b * Dope Ninja Sport 180m, 6

Six pitch mountaineering route with bolts. Lots of fun.

Descent is tricky.

FA: Dane Bass, Matt Greco, Ralph Vega & Dottie Cross

2
5.10c X Feral-Dover Ridge Trad 760m, 20

Climb "Dope Ninja" then continue up the ridge to a large ledge. Easier terrain, 3 pitches up a headwall, short pitch out right, up a dihedral.

Walk along top to top of "Devotion" and rappel that for the descent.

3
5.10b ** Cactus Pile Sport 94m, 3, 10
4
5.8 * I Believe I Can Fly Sport 30m
5
5.9 * Emilio's Posse Sport 30m
6
5.10a * This Dog's Life Sport 28m

FA: Rusty Baillie & Magic Ed

7
5.9 * Caguama Queen Sport 28m

FA: Tami

8
5.10c ** Motarola Sport 26m, 9
9
5.10a to 5.10b ** Kelso's Way Sport 37m, 12

Recently re-bolted (as of 2014), 8 bolts to first anchor and 3 for the extension. 5.10a to intermediate anchor, 5.10b to final anchor.

FA: Mike Quigley & Magic Ed

10
5.10d ** Team Hilti Sport 33m

FA: Kurt Smith

11
5.11a ** Monkey Boy Sport 30m

FA: Jon Prado

12
5.10d *** Snott Girlz Sport 180m, 7

FA: Curtis Mai & Todd McCray

13

Climbs the left side of the bulge, right of Snott Girlz.

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

14
5.11d ** Stone Groovin' Sport 30m
15
5.12a ** King Mota Sport 33m
16
5.11b ** Fat Boy Slim Sport 28m
17
5.11a *** Motavation Sport 30m
18
5.10d ** Motavision Sport 30m
19
5.11a ** El Grifo Sport 33m
20
5.10c ** Pancho Villa Rides Again Sport 160m, 5, 14

First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean".

21
5.9 * Sleepwalkin Sport 26m
22
5.10b ** Tlaloc Sport 30m
23
5.10d ** Pins and Needles Sport 28m
24
5.12a ** Uncle Crusty Sport 30m

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

25
5.12a ** Soul Slinger Sport 28m

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

26
5.10b * Cactus Dancing Sport 26m
27
5.11+ * La Vaca Sport 55m, 2
28
5.8 ** Abuelito Dime Tu Sport 26m

retro-bolted trad route.

29

retro-bolted trad route

30
5.12- Hey Buddy Nice Cock Sport 91m, 3
31
5.11c *** Onward Through The Fog Sport 29m

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

32

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

33
5.12- Petting Zoo Sport 30m
34
5.11c ** Red Helmet Sport 21m
35

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

37
5.10c ** Treasure of the Sierra Madre Sport 230m, 7, 12

FA: Paul Irby & Magic Ed

38
5.9 Ulf Route Trad 30m
39
40
5.11a ** Juggalo Sport 27m
41
5.10b ** All Fun and Games Sport 27m, 12

Shares anchor with "Juggalo".

42
5.10c Paz Para Vlequez Sport
43
5.9 ** Rusty's Crack Sport 30m

retro-bolted trad route

44
5.11a *** Leap Of Faith Sport 90m, 3
45
5.9 ** Mystery Niner Sport 26m
46
5.10d * Double Trouble Sport 2, 10
47
5.10d ** Frenesi Sport 26m
48
5.11d * Beaver Heaver Sport 30m, 10
49
5.11b ** The Flaming Bearded Lady Sport 30m, 10
50
5.10c *** Double Cherry Pie Sport 53m, 2
51
5.12a *** Fierce Invalids Sport 100m, 3

FA: Jim Taylor, Daniel D. Eubank & Myrick, 2002

52
5.11b ** Cloud Nine Sport 100m, 3

FA: Jim Taylor & Dane Bass, 2003

53
5.12a * Fear of a Curved Planet Sport 55m, 2
54
5.12a Time Loves a Hero Sport 8

A new big multi-pitch route on the Mota wall. Still has some loose rock so be prepared. P1 - 5.7 P2 - 5.9+ P3 - 5.11c (variation 5.10b) P4 - 5.10c P5 - 5.12a P6 - 5.10b P7 - 5.10a P8 - 5.9

Rap beta : You can rap from the top of Pitch 8 to the top of Pitch 6 Take a 70 m rope.

FFA: Kristen Shelburg, Magic Ed & Amy Yeyoda

FA: Magic Ed

55
5.12a El Viajero del Tiempo Sport 50m
56
5.12d Microcosm Sport 45m
57
58
5.10d ** Diez Algo Sport
59
5.13a The Luckiest Donkey Sport 100m, 3, 10

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