Lower Sense of Religion Mostly sport climbing

58 routes in cliff

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Description

This is the large expanse of rock facing southwards into the Potrero on the east-side. It starts out just above the aroyo, and extends up to obvious bend i the wall characterized by a steep orange bulge topped by a gray bulb -- or from the road to about 400m up the wall.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b *** Dope Ninja Sport 180m

Six pitch mountaineering route with bolts. Lots of fun.

Descent is tricky.

FA: Dane Bass, Matt Greco, Ralph Vega, Dottie Cross

2
5.10c X Feral-Dover Ridge Trad 760m

Climb "Dope Ninja" then continue up the ridge to a large ledge. Easier terrain, 3 pitches up a headwall, short pitch out right, up a dihedral.

Walk along top to top of "Devotion" and rappel that for the descent.

3
5.10b * Cactus Pile Sport 94m, 10
4
5.8 I Believe I Can Fly Sport 30m
5
5.9 Emilio's Posse Sport 30m
6
5.10a * This Dog's Life Sport 28m

FA: Rusty Baillie, Magic Ed

7
5.9 Caguama Queen Sport 28m

FA: Tami

8
5.10c ** Motarola Sport 26m, 9
9
5.10b Kelso's Way Sport 37m

FA: Mike Quigley & Magic Ed

10
5.10d ** Team Hilti Sport 33m

FA: Kurt Smith

11
5.11a * Monkey Boy Sport 30m

FA: Jon Prado

12
5.10d *** Snott Girlz Sport 180m

FA: Curtis Mai, Todd McCray

13

Climbs the left side of the bulge, right of Snott Girlz.

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

14
5.11d * Stone Groovin' Sport 30m
15
5.12a * King Mota Sport 33m
16
5.11b * Fat Boy Slim Sport 28m
17
5.11a ** Motavation Sport 30m
18
5.10d ** Motavision Sport 30m
19
5.11a ** El Grifo Sport 33m
20
5.10c *** Pancho Villa Rides Again Sport 160m, 14

First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean".

21
5.9 * Sleepwalkin Sport 26m
22
5.10b * Tlaloc Sport 30m
23
5.10d Pins and Needles Sport 28m
24
5.12a * Uncle Crusty Sport 30m

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

25
5.12a Soul Slinger Sport 28m

Doesn't start from the base -- access by "Cactus Dancing" or "Pins and Needles".

26
5.10b Cactus Dancing Sport 26m
27
5.11+ La Vaca Sport 55m
28
5.8 Abuelito Dime Tu Sport 26m

retro-bolted trad route.

29

retro-bolted trad route

30
5.12- Hey Buddy Nice Cock Sport 91m
31
5.11c Onward Through The Fog Sport 29m

FA: Dane Bass & Paul Irby

32

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

33
5.12- Petting Zoo Sport 30m
34
5.11c Red Helmet Sport 21m
35

FA: Kim Carpenter & Dane Bass

37
5.10c ** Treasure of the Sierra Madre Sport 230m, 12

FA: Paul Irby and Magic Ed

38
5.9 Ulf Route Trad 30m
39
40
5.11a Juggalo Sport 27m
41
5.10b All Fun and Games Sport 27m, 12

Shares anchor with "Juggalo".

42
5.10c Paz Para Vlequez Sport
43
5.9 Rusty's Crack Sport 30m

retro-bolted trad route

44
5.11a *** Leap Of Faith Sport 90m
45
5.9 Mystery Niner Sport 26m
46
5.10d Double Trouble Sport 10
47
5.10d *** Frenesi Sport 26m
48
5.11d Beaver Heaver Sport 30m, 10
49
5.11b The Flaming Bearded Lady Sport 30m, 10
50
5.10c Double Cherry Pie Sport 53m
51
5.12a *** Fierce Invalids Sport 100m

FA: Jim Taylor, Daniel D. Eubank, Myrick, 2002

52
5.11b ** Cloud Nine Sport 100m

FA: Jim Taylor, Dane Bass, 2003

53
5.12a * Fear of a Curved Planet Sport 55m
54
5.12a El Viajero del Tiempo Sport 50m
55
5.12d Microcosm Sport 45m
56
57
5.10d Diez Algo Sport
58
5.13a The Luckiest Donkey Sport 100m, 10