The Virgin Canyon Mostly sport climbing85 routes in cliff
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This is the first deep canyon on the right as you walk into the park, just past the swimming pools.
Walls are ordered left-right along the canyon, when facing the side of the canyon that wall is on. (That is, clockwise around the canyon, starting with the first wall on the lowest point of the left (north-facing) side of the canyon.
Due to the easy approach (up stairs), the abundance of good climbs, and the tendency to be shaded, the lower walls of the Virgin canyon are very popular, and can be quite busy on weekend days as locals come out to climb them.
Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico
Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.
Enter the pools and walk up the stairs. Or, walk to the left side of the canyon and step up around the edge of the chain link fence and up the path.
If walking up the stairs, you will hit the north wall of the canyon at "Cat Wall" when you first get to a rock wall. If you don't enter at the pools, but by cutting aorund the end of the fence, you'll be at the "Surf Board" wall.