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Description

A saddle in the rock west (right when facing the Potrero) of "Buzz Rock".

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park and there is no fee to enter. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges.

Approach

To get to this crag you need to take the same approach trail for Land of The Free, Plutonia Cave, Buzz Rock. Where the trail splits left and uphill for Land of the Free and Plutonia you instead continue towards Buzz Rock. About 20 meters past that split in the trail is another split. Take this left split up hill into the gully to the left of Buzz Rock. Follow the rock cairns up the gully for a long ways.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10b 5 A.M. Breakfast Sport 6 9

Towards the top of the Tarahumara Pass there is 5 AM Breakfast. After scrambling up through a bunch of 4th class you will find yourself at the base of this climb.

Max bolts per pitch 9.

1st Pitch - Climb up and left around the arete.

2nd Pitch - Climb up and left from the belay station through a slight dihedral. Then pull onto face.

3rd Pitch - Climb through the dihedral low then up the large column face.

4th Pitch - Climb up into the beginning of the off width dihedral.

5th Pitch - The pitch that you came all the way for. Sweet off width dihedral climbing.

6th Pitch - A super short pitch that could be linked into the 5th pitch.

Rap beta : With a 70 m rope you can rap the last two pitches as one. With a 60 m rope you need to do the short rap of the last pitch. Rap the route.

2
5.11c * Border Dog Sport 50m 2

Shares top belay with "Dos Mundos".

3
5.12a Dos Mundos Sport 50m 2

Shares top anchor with "Border Dog".

Activity

Check out what is happening in Tarahumara Pass.