The Jungle Wall Mostly sport climbing

19 routes in cliff

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Description

This cliff is one of the easiest to find -- it is the big vegetated slab behind the tin pavilion.

Several of EPC's classic multi-pitch go up this wall.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a 'State' Park, but there is no fee. There are a few campsites and rooms available just down the road (i.e. 10 minute walk) from the park entrance.

Approach

Step over the aqueduct and walk past the (mostly) abandoned picnic area.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10d Robin Hood Trad 760m

Starts left of "Stairway to Nowhere", up to its summit, further up the ridge into a large bowl, then up to the summit of "Time Wave Zero".

Descent: rappel TWZ.

2
5.10d Stairway to Nowhere Mixed 120m, 10

Mixed gear and bolts, seldom climbed and hard to find.

3
5.5 Tamarindo Trad 30m

Climb the gully just left of "Las Chimuelas".

4
5.9 Las Chimuelas Sport 90m

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

FA: Magic Ed, Tami, Ismael Garza

5
5.11c Warifikis Sport 35m

Start as per "Las Chimuelas", but after 3rd bolt follow bolt-line straight up to the left side of the roof.

6
5.9 * Jungle Boy Sport 55m

Shares start with "Las Chimuelas" and "Warifikis", but goes over the roof at an easier part than Warifikis.

Climb up and over the roof. Then up slab above.

7
5.9 Maria la Sabrosa Sport 34m

Ed rates this 5.10a, Dane rates it 5.8. I split the difference. :)

FA: Dane Bass

The next three routes ("Jungle Fever", "Voodoo Trance", and "Hot Rock Global Challenge") are on a wall above the ledge/garden on the left side of the face. Climb the first three pitches of "Jungle Moutaineering", then walk leftwards up the 3rd class trail along the base of the face to find them.

8
5.10a Jungle Fever Sport 61m, 12

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the last route along the trail (left-most).

9
5.10d Voodoo Trance Sport 180m, 12

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

Pitch 4 has a 5.11b variation -- go straight up through the overhanging dihedral for the 11b, or up a ramp before re-joining the dihedral.

10
5.10c Hot Rock Global Challenge Sport 21m, 7

This route is approached by climbing the first 3 pitches of "Jungle Mountaineering" then following the 3rd class trail leftwards up through the garden to the wall.

This is the first line of bolts that will be found on the wall.

11
5.10a * Jungle Mountaineering Sport 120m

Climb the obvious clean water streak right of the Jungle Boy roof, on the generally left side of the wall.

12
5.10b ** Yankee Clipper Sport 460m, 12

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch.

13
5.10d *** Space Boyz Sport 300m, 12

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car.

FA: Curtis Mai, Todd McCray

14
5.8 CDC & J Sport 34m, 8
15
5.8 The Grafiti Route Sport 27m, 5
16
5.10d *** Black Cat Bone Sport 270m, 14

Starts just left of the tree climbing close to the aqueduct. Climbs the black streak through the large roof right of "Space Boyz".

FA: Magic Ed, Dane Bass

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
3
0
30m
1